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Climbing Pipeline: A Bold Trad Challenge in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
offwidth
squeeze chimney
big gear
multi-pitch
granite
Squamish
Length: 445 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Pipeline
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Pipeline unfolds as a compelling trad climb in Squamish, stretching 445 feet through squeeze chimneys and commanding offwidths. Its blend of technical jams and big gear demands engages climbers who seek enduring challenges on classic granite."

Climbing Pipeline: A Bold Trad Challenge in Squamish

Pipeline carves its way into Squamish climbing history as a focused test of persistence and technique, stretching over 445 feet split into four pitches of pure trad climbing. The route starts with an imposing squeeze chimney that demands precise body positioning and control—a slot narrow enough to force every inch of balance and leverage. Nearby birds observe your ascent as you make your way up Birds of Prey’s slender ramp, where solid footwork sets the rhythm before reaching the first belay.

From here, Pipeline intensifies, pushing climbers into a steepening ramp that gradually shifts into offwidth territory—a playground for big gear and powerful jams. The offwidth pitch itself sweeps across the wall like a pipeline running through stone—a demanding 170-foot push that rewards patience and endurance. Larger hands and feet find clever jams and heel-toe locks, while smaller climbers face a physical puzzle to sustain upward momentum.

Protection is a crucial factor here, with crack sizes ranging from old-school #5 camalots up to wild country #6s and massive big bros, emphasizing the need for a well-stocked rack tailored for wide cracks. While the crux pitches rely on big gear, some smaller pieces become helpful as the climbing eases near the final belay. Note that the summit lacks fixed anchors; long slings around sturdy trees provide the safest belay setup, though two bolts have reportedly been added recently, furnishing additional security.

The approach to Pipeline is steeped in Squamish’s rugged natural beauty. Located within the Slhanay area, the route commands a sweeping view of Howe Sound’s restless waters and surrounding peaks. Quiet forest trails lead climbers to the base of Birds of Prey with a manageable but firm hike, requiring sturdy footwear and an early start to avoid afternoon heat. The granite wall’s western aspect catches the sun late in the day, making morning ascents more comfortable.

Despite its challenging nature, Pipeline feels accessible to climbers who have accustomed themselves to offwidth techniques and big gear placements. The route’s steady progression and evolving crack styles build confidence while demanding respect. Weather conditions, rock cleanliness, and aware protection placements combine to keep the experience engaging and safe.

Prepare to immerse yourself in a climbing experience that is as much about connection with the rock as it is about physical challenge. From that first squeeze chimney test to the satisfying final reaches atop the pipeline pitch, this route offers a rewarding blend of technical skills, commitment, and breathtaking wilderness vibes. For those ready to push limits on British Columbia’s granite giants, Pipeline stands as a compelling destination with both adventure and practical demands met full on throughout the climb.

Climber Safety

The route’s offwidth sections require solid protection placement with large cams to prevent ground fall hazards. The lack of fixed anchors at the top means climbers must be skilled at anchor building with natural features and long slings; check local updates about the two new bolts but do not rely solely on them. Be wary of loose debris in the squeeze chimney and scout the approach trail carefully to avoid slipping on wet or mossy rock.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length445 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of morning shade and avoid afternoon heat on the west-facing wall.

Bring big cams and wide protection; traditional small cams alone won’t cut it here.

Practice offwidth technique before attempting the long pipeline pitch to maintain efficiency.

Plan for a careful rappel or downclimb from the top using slings on trees or backup bolts.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10+
Quality
Consensus:At a solid 5.10+, Pipeline offers a grade that isn’t soft—expect sustained technical cruxes primarily in the offwidth sections. The chimney pitch challenges body tension and flexibility, while the long offwidth demands endurance but benefits from natural gear placements. Compared to other Squamish trad routes, Pipeline leans into the big crack category, making it a great progression climb for those familiar with jams but looking to stretch physical limits.

Gear Requirements

Prepare to bring a rack heavily weighted toward large protection—old #5 to new #6 camalots, plus big bros in green and blue sizes are essential. Some small gear after the crux pitch helps secure easier sections above. Be ready to build your own anchors at the top with long slings and natural anchors, although two bolts have been reported recently for added safety.

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Tags

offwidth
squeeze chimney
big gear
multi-pitch
granite
Squamish