HomeClimbingClean Sweep

Clean Sweep at Tonnere Tower: A Trad Challenge in Boulder Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
hand crack
finger crack
trad gear
crack climbing
boulder canyon
east facing
multi-pitch
granite
Length: 95 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Clean Sweep
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Clean Sweep carves a steep, technical crack line on Tonnere Tower that demands steady trad skills and smart gear placements. Perfect for those looking to experience the classic granite of Boulder Canyon beyond the bolts."

Clean Sweep at Tonnere Tower: A Trad Challenge in Boulder Canyon

Clean Sweep offers a compelling trad experience climbing a striking crack system on Tonnere Tower's rugged face, positioned just right of the second pitch on the classic Stayin' Alive route. This climb rewards traditional gear enthusiasts with sustained crack climbing that demands solid pro placement, technique, and composure. The route begins after a short approach on Stayin' Alive, Face Off, or Nick Of Time, bringing climbers into the heart of Boulder Canyon’s vertical granite. From the second belay anchor 15 feet to the right of Stayin' Alive's pitch two, Clean Sweep ventures right below a small roof before entering a series of cracks that unfold in natural lines.

The crack system itself becomes a playground of contrasts—fingers slide into tight seams while hands jam comfortably in wider sections. The layback near the start offers relief and technique variety before a steep headwall pushes the challenge higher. Here, strategic gear placement is vital; a green Alien fits perfectly in a finger pocket, anchoring a traverse right that transitions into more technical climbing northward. Beyond this flake, the route intensifies as a second steep crack presents the 5.9 crux, demanding precise body positioning and confidence on smaller edges. Protection in this section is excellent but relies on well-placed gear with a #13 Stopper wired nut being a key piece.

Continuing up and right around an airy bulge keeps the adrenaline steady while a purple tricam aids safety in a horizontal quartz crack. The final stretch leads to a large grassy ledge where climbers can catch their breath before the short final steep pitch to the 2-bolt anchor. This endpoint sits just down and right of Stayin’ Alive’s top belay, linking the routes in a climbing conversation across the tower’s face.

The descent asks for two rappels: a 90-foot rappel angling slightly left back to the starting ledge of Clean Sweep, then a further 95-foot drop from Stayin' Alive's top anchor to the ground. Alternatively, experienced parties can opt to descend via Buried Treasure, which offers a different two-rappel route back to the base.

Clean Sweep is more than a single-pitch challenge; it’s a reminder of why bringing a full rack to Tonnere Tower expands climbing options beyond bolts and sport lines. Crack climbers will appreciate the mix of hand jams, finger locks, and laybacks that emphasize gear skills alongside physical effort. The granite here feels alive—sharp edges demand attention, and the cracks seem to guide your hands upward with a quiet insistence.

Practical tips include packing a comprehensive trad rack ranging from finger-sized cams to larger hand and fist pieces, since protection placements vary with some flared sections needing trusted hybrid cams. The anchors are solid 2-bolt setups, but awareness of rock quality and gear placement diligence ensures a safer ascent. Summer and early fall present optimal conditions, as the wall faces east and morning sun hits early, warming the granite but avoiding overheating midday. Approaches remain straightforward from Boulder Canyon trailheads, with well-marked paths and reasonable hiking distances.

Prepare for this climb by hydrating well, wearing climbing shoes suited for crack work, and communicating clearly with your partner for smooth transitions between pitches. Clean Sweep balances the thrill of a technical trad climb with a manageable length of 95 feet, making it an approachable yet rewarding objective for intermediate and confident climbers eager to expand their rack and tap into Boulder Canyon’s trad offerings.

Climber Safety

Sections of flared cracks require well-fitted gear for secure placements; loose or insecure placements increase fall risk significantly. The rappels demand careful rope management and attention to rappel angles to avoid pendulum swings. Also, watch for rock quality near the grassy ledges, which can be loose or crumbly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length95 feet

Local Tips

Start by climbing to the second belay of Stayin' Alive or Buried Treasure before moving right to Clean Sweep’s starting anchor.

Bring a rack heavy on micro to medium cams, plus a few larger pieces for tricky placements in flared cracks.

Morning sun warms the east-facing wall—plan your climb accordingly to avoid overheating during midday.

Use the two-rappel descent; rappel angles must be controlled to avoid swing hazards.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Clean Sweep aligns well with the classic Yosemite-style crack climbing challenges typical of Boulder Canyon. The rating fits the sustained nature of the crack climbing and subtle crux sequences. It feels on par with Stayin’ Alive’s difficulty, with a slightly more concentrated crux near the top using a key #13 Stopper placement. Less experienced climbers may find the gear placements increase the mental challenge, making the overall rating feel a bit stiff until comfortable with technical trad protection.

Gear Requirements

Clean Sweep requires a solid trad rack focusing on finger- to hand-sized cams and nuts, including a #13 Stopper wired nut, a #2 purple tricam, and double sets from green Alien to #2 Camalot. Some flared cracks suit hybrid Aliens for secure placements. Anchors are bolted, but expect gear placements to protect the crux sections.

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Tags

hand crack
finger crack
trad gear
crack climbing
boulder canyon
east facing
multi-pitch
granite