"Clean Streak offers a one-pitch, 5.6 trad climb in Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs, guiding you through moderate hand and finger cracks that widen into a slot. With straightforward access and manageable gear needs, it’s ideal for trad climbers seeking a solid introduction to classic crack climbing in a majestic forested setting."
Clean Streak is a short, approachable trad route tucked into the heart of The Smoke Bluffs, a climbing area known for its granitic walls and vibrant outdoor culture just a stone’s throw from Squamish, British Columbia. This 65-foot pitch offers an inviting line that threads through a series of cracks subtly set to the right of the popular Chopper Malone route. The climb’s moderate 5.6 rating makes it a perfect gateway for those honing traditional climbing techniques or anyone looking to enjoy a manageable yet rewarding multi-textured crack experience without the crowds of more prominent routes.
The ascent begins at the base of a clean face where narrow, finger-width cracks call out for thoughtful hand and foot placements. As you move upward, these cracks widen into a broader slot that invites you to transition your approach. The rock’s solid granite surfaces provide dependable friction, yet the route demands focus—placing gear carefully is essential since protection is limited to a single rack. Expect to maneuver around subtle features, feeling the texture of the stone beneath your hands and feet, while the surrounding forest whispers with light winds through towering firs and pines that frame your climb.
Accessing Clean Streak is straightforward: a short approach trail from the parking area leads you right into the Smoke Bluffs core. The path is well-trodden but can be rocky in spots, so sturdy footwear with good grip is recommended. Expect around 15 minutes to reach the trailhead from the main parking lot. Once done, climbers can descend by a simple downclimb to the base, making it accessible for those who want to quickly link up multiple climbs in one outing or enjoy a serene afternoon in the distinctive Squamish wilderness.
Understanding protection needs is critical here. A single rack, properly sized between small to medium cams, suffices for this climb. The placements are generally secure but can be sparse—avoid overreaching for gear and maintain steady balance throughout. This emphasis on precise gear placement sharpens trad climbing skills and builds confidence in managing your pro on less beaten paths.
The Smoke Bluffs itself lies within a vibrant climbing community hub, offering routes ranging from beginner to expert levels. Clean Streak’s east-facing wall basks in morning sun, making fall and spring ideal seasons to climb without overheating or facing wet granite. Summer mornings are crisp, while afternoons can bring increased exposure to sun, so early starts or late afternoon climbs help maintain ideal conditions.
Whether you're new to traditional climbing or returning to refine your crack skills, Clean Streak combines a serene forest setting with a route that pushes enough technique without overextending. It’s a route that invites connection: between you, the rock, and the surrounding wildness—a brief but potent taste of Squamish’s natural grit and grace.
Protection options are limited to a single rack, so climbers should double-check gear placements beneath more exposed sections. The rock is solid, but attention to footholds and hand jams is crucial to avoid slips. The approach trail, while short, includes some uneven terrain that requires caution.
Start climbs early to take advantage of morning sun and cooler temperatures.
Wear climbing shoes with precise edging capabilities to navigate narrow cracks efficiently.
Bring a rack focused on small to medium camming devices, avoiding overpacking.
Approach trail can be rocky; sturdy footwear is recommended for the short hike.
A single rack containing small to medium cams is sufficient for protection. Careful and deliberate gear placement is key due to limited pro opportunities along the crack system.
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