5.7, Trad
Squamish
British Columbia ,Canada
"Clean Starts is a short trad climb featuring clean finger cracks ascending a corner with a solid ledge finish. Perfect for climbers looking to refine crack climbing technique in the accessible and stunning Smoke Bluffs."
Clean Starts offers an approachable yet engaging trad climb set within the rugged expanse of the Smoke Bluffs, a renowned climbing area near Squamish, British Columbia. This one-pitch route extends 25 feet up a corner marked by clean finger cracks that invite you to engage directly with the rock. The climb’s moderate 5.7 rating makes it an excellent choice for those sharpening traditional crack climbing skills or anyone eager for a straightforward pitch with a rewarding finish.
From the base, the crack system draws you upward with confident holds, each finger jam sliding into place with a satisfying grip. The rock’s texture is solid and gritty under hand and foot, offering dependable purchase as you ascend the corner spine to a comfortable ledge. The crux is not demanding but requires a steady rhythm and careful footwork — a practical introduction to crack climbing technique without overwhelming complexity.
Protection is straightforward, mainly small to medium cams ranging up to 1.5 inches. The placements are well-spaced and secure enough for confidence but still require thoughtful positioning, reinforcing habits of gear assessment and placement that every trad climber values. The ledge at the top offers a natural belay station, allowing for a safe and straightforward descent.
Situated in the verdant northern boundary of the Smoke Bluffs, the climb benefits from ample natural light during mid-morning to early afternoon, providing warmth and dry holds throughout much of the year. The forested approach weaves through towering pines and firs, the crunch of dry needles underfoot punctuated by the occasional rush of a distant birdcall. The atmosphere combines the quiet focus of the climb with a gentle reminder of the wilderness’s pulse around you.
Approaching Clean Starts requires a brief but steady hike through well-worn trails from the main parking areas of the Smoke Bluffs. The access path climbs gradually, carpeted with soft forest debris and punctuated by occasional rock steps that prepare you for the vertical challenge ahead. Plan for roughly 10 to 15 minutes of hiking each way, making this route a convenient option for climbers looking for efficient outings.
For those new to trad or exploring this climbing zone, Clean Starts is a reliable gateway route — offering a balanced mix of tactile climbing, manageable protection, and a setting that simultaneously soothes and sharpens the senses. It’s a climb that rewards precision and measured commitment while letting you experience the steady heartbeat of Squamish’s iconic granite landscape.
Watch your foot placements carefully, especially on the lower section where the rock can be slightly less featured. The ledge offers secure belay anchors, but always double-check gear placements as protection is spaced but solid.
Start early to catch optimal sunlight on the route’s face by mid-morning.
Wear sticky climbing shoes for precise foot placements on smooth granite.
Practice placing gear before the climb to build confidence with cracks.
Hydrate well and bring a light pack; the approach is short but uphill.
Bring traditional gear up to 1.5 inches for secure placements along the crack. Cam sizes suitable for finger to hand jams work best to protect this route’s features safely.
Upload your photos of Clean Starts and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.