HomeClimbingClean Slate

Clean Slate: The Friction Slab Challenge at Lake Ramona

San Diego, California United States
friction slab
trad anchor
slab technique
single pitch
north san diego
lake ramona
Length: 20 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Clean Slate
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Clean Slate shines as a demanding friction slab near Lake Ramona, where delicate footwork and precise gear placement combine with stunning exposed granite. This compact trad climb offers multiple lines for those ready to test balance and slab technique in a quiet, rugged setting."

Clean Slate: The Friction Slab Challenge at Lake Ramona

Clean Slate offers an invigorating technical test on a broad friction slab set against the rugged backdrop of Lake Ramona’s wild edges. This single-pitch traditional climb rewards focus and finesse more than brute force, inviting climbers to read the rock’s subtle texture as they navigate delicately upward. The slab’s surface is broad and sculpted with generous friction, coaxing confident foot placements amid occasional blocks demanding careful protection strategy.

Approaching from the Ridge Base Area, adventurers find themselves on a quiet stretch of North San Diego County’s granite outcrops. The air here is crisp and often dry, heightening tactile connection with the rock underfoot. The area’s sparse vegetation frames the climb but doesn’t distract from the slab’s commanding presence; instead, it heightens awareness of the wind’s soft whisper and the rock’s cold grip. Clean Slate stretches roughly 20 feet, a short but intense journey with a few distinct choices to challenge individual style.

The left variation invites climbers to begin rightward before committing to a traversing path that leads to a steep arete finish—a demanding路线 requiring balance and precision. Meanwhile, the center route offers a more straightforward ascent directly up the slab’s belly—this line is often the favorite for its clear, compelling flow and consistent friction.

For those seeking an added technical puzzle, the right side’s tricky mantle onto the slab followed by an upward move along the right arete provides a rewarding test of body positioning and confident edging. Each route’s texture and angle push the climber to move economically and deliberately, offering a genuine slab experience that’s rare for the region.

Protection is primarily traditional, with pads recommended for the low slab sections but anchor placements requiring some thoughtful gear such as cams sized from #1 to #4 C4. The rock hosts a few secure blocks ideal for anchors, but the protection demands an attentive rack and steady hands; placements aren’t always obvious, enhancing this climb’s allure among trad purists.

Part of the draw here is the solitude and exposure combined—a remote-feeling pocket of San Diego County’s granite where the elements both challenge and invite exploration. Climbers appreciate the quiet complexity of Clean Slate, where the friction demands respect and the short length keeps energy and focus intact.

Timing a climb on this slab is best in cooler seasons or early morning when the sun hasn’t baked the rock. The north-facing angle shelters climbers from the harsh afternoon blaze, yet a light wind can add a briskness that sharpens concentration. Given its modest height and exposed face, a quick descent involves downclimbing carefully back to the base with steady hands and eyes set on secure footholds.

This route is ideal for climbers seeking a pure friction slab challenge coupled with rugged natural beauty just beyond urban reach. It’s approachable for trad climbers transitioning into slabwork and a solid addition for anyone keen on refining slab technique while enjoying the inviting isolation and scenic calm of Lake Ramona’s rugged highlands.

Climber Safety

Approach protection with care as placements can be sparse and sometimes tricky; the anchor blocks require firm placement of cams, and the slab’s exposure leaves little margin for error when downclimbing. Slippery when wet, avoid climbing after rain or heavy dew.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length20 feet

Local Tips

Early morning climbs yield cooler rock and less sun exposure on the slab.

Bring a full set of cams up to #4 C4 to secure the anchor and possible mid-route protection.

Use sticky-soled shoes optimized for friction slab to maximize grip and control.

Carefully test all gear placements before committing as the anchor blocks can be tricky.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated a classic 5.9, Clean Slate feels true to grade but demands solid slab skills. The friction holds are generous but the technical mantle and delicate footwork raise the effort level beyond a straightforward climb. The rating feels accurate, with the crux on the right arete variation introducing a subtle bump in difficulty compared to similar slabs in Southern California.

Gear Requirements

Pads are essential for cushioning low slab sections. The anchor points are formed by stable blocks needing placements of cams ranging from #1 to #4 C4. Protection requires careful gear selection and precise placement due to limited fixed anchors.

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Tags

friction slab
trad anchor
slab technique
single pitch
north san diego
lake ramona