"An inviting 5.8 sport climb on sharp limestone holds, CJ & The Lesbian Seagull offers a fun morning challenge with a small bulge crux and reliable protection in the shade of Shelf Road’s The Bank wall."
CJ & The Lesbian Seagull presents an approachable yet engaging sport climb tucked away on The Bank wall at Shelf Road, Colorado. This single-pitch route offers an ideal way to start your day, thanks to its cool morning shade and straightforward moves on sharp, reliable holds. The rock calls out with a satisfying texture that invites confident footwork and steady hand placements. Approaching the small but meaningful bulge near the top, climbers find the crux—brief yet punchy—offering a perfect test of power without veering into overly taxing territory. With a total of six well-spaced bolts protecting the climb, the route maintains a consistent level of security, allowing climbers of varied skill levels to focus more on movement than gear management.
At roughly 5.8 difficulty, the climb strikes a balance between accessibility and excitement. It avoids the extremes of beginner terrain while staying forgiving enough to not intimidate. The route’s modest length and clear line make it an efficient climb, ideal for warming up or slipping in a quick send before tackling longer projects nearby. The sound of the wind brushing past the canyon and the occasional rustle of seagulls flooding the air complements the quiet approach through the rocky outcrops and scattered piñon pines.
Approach is straightforward—a short walk from the parking off Highway 50, across rugged limestone terrain offering a taste of the area’s raw character without demanding too much grunt. The Bank is known for its consistent limestone edges and pockets, and CJ & The Lesbian Seagull delivers this signature feel, combining technical feet with engaging handholds. Timing your climb early maximizes shade and cooler temperatures, crucial under the Colorado sun when temperatures rise.
To make the most of this climb, pack light but smart: bring a 60-meter rope, quickdraws compatible with sport routes, and shoes that excel on sharp limestone edges. Hydration remains key, especially in the dryer months. The beauty of this route is in its directness and the crisp physical challenge posed by the bulge, which tests your technique more than your endurance.
Whether you’re a visiting climber looking to warm up or a local aiming to make the most of a morning session, CJ & The Lesbian Seagull blends simple navigation, solid protection, and a textured rock surface to deliver a rewarding experience. Its unpretentious character makes it perfect for focusing purely on movement, connection with the rock, and the quiet canyon surroundings.
Watch for sharp edges near the bulge crux and place your feet carefully to avoid ankle twists on uneven limestone. The bolts are solid but space is moderate—clip efficiently. Be cautious of sun exposure if climbing later in the day as the shade recedes quickly.
Start early to enjoy the route in morning shade before the sun warms the wall.
Wear climbing shoes with a sharp edge to maximize foothold grip on the limestone.
Hydrate well beforehand—despite the shade, the arid canyon climate can dehydrate quickly.
Approach via the clearly marked trail from the main Shelf Road parking area; the walk is short but over uneven terrain.
This route is protected by six bolts spaced to protect the small bulge crux. Bring standard sport climbing quickdraws and a 60-meter rope for comfortable belaying and descent.
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