"Citadel Crag in Wyoming’s Vedauwoo region offers a diverse range of climbs from approachable 5.8s to committing 11s and 12s. Its quiet location and sun-soaked south face make it a prime destination for climbers seeking both adventure and solid pitches just a mile east of Vedauwoo's main corridors."
Citadel Crag presents a compelling climbing destination tucked slightly off the beaten path in Wyoming’s Vedauwoo, standing at just under 8,000 feet elevation. This south-facing rock formation greets climbers with sun-drenched walls that warm quickly during cooler months, inviting all levels from confident 5.8 trad climbers to those chasing the committing challenges of 5.11 and 5.12 terrain. The approach begins from Vedauwoo Road, turning onto 700L—a quiet forest road that brings you into an intimate landscape marked by aspen groves and a creek crossing. After about a mile following the clear trail east, you’ll spot Citadel Crag standing prominent before you, distinguished from neighboring features like Worm Drive Rocks and the nearby Plumb Line crag.
Climbers will find Citadel Crag to be a place where variety and concentration blend. The routes lean toward single-pitch challenges with a mix of bolted lines and traditional anchors that demand a thoughtful approach, especially for the more advanced lines. Classic ascents here include Stems and Weeds (5.8), offering a solid introduction to the area’s rock, and Heads of the Valley (5.10b), which blends technique and commitment without overwhelming the climber. For those with a taste for solid crack climbing and steeper faces, Citadel Crack (5.10b) stands out as a test of finesse and endurance, while Last King of Vedauwoo (5.9) provides a well-rounded experience of tranquility paired with technical challenges.
The rock quality, while not explicitly detailed in the data, tends to adhere to the Vedauwoo reputation: solid with occasional gritty patches, ideal for hand and finger jams. The crag’s south-facing exposure ensures mornings are often cool but afternoons provide ample warmth, especially important during spring and fall when Wyoming’s weather can swing swiftly. This orientation also means that climbers chasing summer ascents should plan early starts to avoid overheating and afternoon thunderstorms frequent to the region.
Getting here requires a modest commitment to hiking, but the payoff is a refuge from the busier Vedauwoo hotspots. The trail from the end of 700L crosses a creek and navigates gently through aspen groves—visuals that mirror the area's serene and focused vibe. The approach is fairly straightforward and well-marked, making it accessible for climbers mindful of timing and daylight. Once at the base, most routes favor the south face, which climbs compact and athletic lines that reward precision and composure.
Safety is paramount here. While the rock is generally dependable, some routes venture into more committing territory in the 11 and 12 grades, requiring solid lead experience and proper gear. Bolts are present but climbers should always double-check anchors and protect their ascent with appropriate trad gear if necessary. The area is managed under USFS regulations, so respecting access guidelines and reporting any fixed gear issues is critical to maintaining open climbing.
Within a day trip from Laramie, Wyoming, Citadel Crag blends accessibility with an adventurous spirit. Its collection of diverse climbs—ranging in technical difficulty—is spread along a compact face that invites both strategic sport climbing and traditional rack exploits. The solitude away from Nurtilus and Central Vedauwoo corridors, combined with the exquisite forested approach and sunlit cliff, makes it a perfect site to experience Wyoming climbing at its most focused and rewarding.
In short, Citadel Crag stands as an inviting destination for those hungry for routes that combine technical challenge and a quiet setting. Whether you’re warming up with Stems and Weeds or testing endurance on some of the stiffer 5.11 and 5.12 routes, it offers the kind of climbing that sharpens skill and deepens appreciation for Vedauwoo’s wild charm.
Some routes at Citadel Crag involve committing climbing on 5.11 and 5.12 terrain with fewer fixed anchors. Careful gear placement and attention to bolt integrity is crucial. The creek crossing en route can become slippery in wet conditions, so plan your approach accordingly.
Start your climb early to beat the afternoon sun and potential summer thunderstorms.
Cross the creek carefully after 700L, especially in spring runoff.
Check recent USFS updates on bolt conditions before your trip.
Bring a standard trad rack and some quickdraws to cover mixed protection styles.
Routes here feature a mix of bolted sport lines and traditional rack placements. Bolts are generally well-placed but climbers should bring a standard trad rack to protect the more committing cracks and faces, especially on the 5.11 to 5.12 terrain. Approach includes a creek crossing and a mile-long trail through aspens, so hiking shoes or boots with good traction are recommended.
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