"Church Bowl Lieback is a classic Yosemite trad climb featuring a single, low-angle crack with a steady lieback technique. Perfect for intermediate climbers seeking a pure granite experience with light gear requirements."
In the heart of Yosemite Valley, Church Bowl Lieback offers a straightforward yet satisfying trad climb that blends deliberate technique with Yosemite’s iconic granite. This single-pitch route stretches 120 feet along a low-angle, thin crack just to the right of the more famous Uncle Fanny. The approach involves negotiating some easy 4th-class scrambling to reach the base, setting the tone for a climb that rewards steady focus and precise hand and footwork.
The crack itself challenges you with a continuous lieback sequence, demanding body tension and patience as it narrows in several spots. The granite here commands respect—not for explosive power moves, but for finesse. Positioning nuts carefully is all you need to protect the route; the crack swallows pro reliably when placed with care. The protection size range from .3 to 1 inch cams keeps your rack light and efficient.
As you ascend, the rock’s texture and subtle flakes invite tactile attentiveness, the stone cool and firm under your fingers. The angle remains manageable, so this climb suits trad climbers aiming to refine crack climbing without extreme difficulty. Because it maintains a modest 5.8 rating, this route holds appeal for those pushing from beginner to intermediate trad grades or looking to stretch their crack skills in a pure Yosemite setting.
Church Bowl Lieback sits in a section of Yosemite Valley that embraces quiet focus amid stunning surroundings. Though less popular than Uncle Fanny, it provides a quieter, more personal connection to the granite’s natural lines. The climb’s straightforward nature makes it ideal for a midday ascent when light conditions are steady and shadows are minimal, allowing clear visibility of each crack feature.
Approaching the route, expect about 10–15 minutes of hike plus easy scrambling on solid, stable rock. The stance at the start is roomy enough to set your feet and lining up gear swiftly. Planning your day around lighter loads and minimalist gear will streamline your movement here.
In addition to the technical essentials, pack plenty of water and a hat—exposure to sun is moderate but persistent, focused on the wall’s southeast-facing orientation. Spring through fall offers consistent dry conditions that keep friction secure and protection placements dependable.
For climbers aiming for a balanced sample of Yosemite’s climbing ethos, this route delivers an approachable engagement with the valley’s granite personality while emphasizing practical gear management and smooth technique. Whether you’re brushing up on liebacks or settling into the rhythm of crack climbing, Church Bowl Lieback invites you to a grounded and rewarding ascent in one of the world’s most storied arenas.
Be cautious on the 4th-class approach terrain; loose rock can pose slipping hazards. On the climb, ensure solid gear placements in narrowing sections to prevent runouts. Watch for sun exposure midday as the wall faces southeast, and stay hydrated.
Use a light rack to maintain agility on the smooth granite face.
Time your climb midday for the best sunlight and wall conditions.
Prepare for some easy 4th-class scrambling to reach the base.
Pack sufficient water and sun protection due to partial exposure.
A compact rack with cams from 0.3 to 1 inch and a set of nuts is ideal. Protection placements are reliable but require attention to placement technique because the crack narrows abruptly in places.
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