5.6, Trad
Squamish
British Columbia ,Canada
"Chuckies Choice is a straightforward trad climb at Smoke Bluffs in Squamish, blending a short finger crack start with a technical slab traverse protected by bolts. Ideal for trad climbers sharpening their skills in a stunning forested granite setting."
Chuckies Choice offers an accessible introduction to trad climbing within the iconic Smoke Bluffs area in Squamish, British Columbia. This concise, single-pitch route invites climbers to engage with a clean, inviting finger crack before making a delicate traverse rightward across a slab peppered with three well-placed bolts. The climb demands careful footwork and a steady hand, blending traditional crack techniques with light sport protections to ease the passage across slab rock that challenges balance and smarts more than brute strength. At approximately 5.6, it is approachable for climbers refining their trad skills, yet its texture and subtle nuances keep the experience interesting and engaging.
The starting crack is short but rewarding, providing a defined feature to place gear and set movement rhythm early on. Climbers will appreciate the firm granite of Smoke Bluffs, whose age-polished surfaces offer consistent friction underfoot and reliable holds. As you move rightward, the route transitions to slab terrain where three bolts provide reassurance but also require thoughtful placement of small gear in the crack and cautious edging. The anchors at the top sit invitingly, overlooking the surrounding forested slopes and hinting at the larger network of climbs within Squamish.
Access here is straightforward, with a short approach from 2nd Avenue that threads through the familiar corridors of Smoke Bluffs’ climbing zones. The approach trail is clear and well-traveled though still demands sensible footwear due to uneven patches and occasional loose gravel. Timing your climb for morning or late afternoon is ideal—avoiding the harsh midday sun while the rock temperature sits comfortably cool and tactile. Consider bringing a water bottle and light layers as the forest breathes fresh air and the granite reflects the changing daylight.
Protection on Chuckies Choice includes a standard rack supplemented by three bolts, which makes it a hybrid experience bridging trad and bolt-laden slab climbing. While the crack allows solid placement for smaller to medium cams, the bolts ease progression across less featured sections. This combination calls for climbers to be proficient at both gear placement and clipping leads, making it an excellent training ground for those considering longer, more committing routes nearby.
Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs is well known for its concentration of climbs that range from beginner to expert, set within a conservation area characterized by old-growth forests and rugged granite spires. Climbing here means embracing not just the technical challenges of the rock but also the ever-present call of the wild surrounding you, with the distant Pacific Ocean air mingling with the scent of cedar and fir. Chuckies Choice fits perfectly into this landscape, delivering a compact but memorable climbing experience that’s as much about connection to place as it is about movement and technique.
While the crack is solid for gear, the slab section demands careful balance and clipping. Loose gravel near the approach and descent may increase slip risk—stay deliberate on foot placements.
Approach via the 2nd Avenue trailhead; trail is well-marked but wear sturdy shoes for loose gravel patches.
Early morning or late afternoon climbs avoid direct sun and keep rock temperatures ideal.
Bring a water bottle and layered clothing; the forested environment can be cool and damp.
Prepare for a hybrid experience using both trad gear placements and clipping bolts.
Standard rack with small to medium cams recommended; route includes three bolts for added security on slab sections.
Upload your photos of Chuckies Choice and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.