"Chouinard Special invites climbers to tackle a 110-foot blend of hand crack and slab climbing on Kernville Rock. Its approachable 5.8 rating conceals technical demands that sharpen your footwork and gear placements, all set against California’s iconic Southern Sierra backdrop."
Chouinard Special offers a compelling mix of trad and sport climbing on the sun-warmed slabs of Kernville Rock, located in the heart of California’s Southern Sierra. This single-pitch route stretches 110 feet up a smooth, slabby face peppered with a handful of bolts. The climb begins in a hand-sized crack tucked inside a dihedral, demanding solid jamming technique and steady balance as you work upward for roughly 40 feet. The initial crack section serves as both a physical and mental primer; your fingers cradle the rock’s texture, coaxing you toward the first bolt vantage point perched on a modest ledge. This ledge includes a fixed anchor but don’t settle here unless you’re topping out early—there’s more slab climbing ahead.
From the ledge, the route transitions to slab climbing on micro edges and tiny crimps that test your footwork and poise. Five bolts offer reliable protection on this exposed face, guiding you with subtle cues through the increasingly technical moves. The rock is predominantly smooth granite with just enough texture to reward delicate smears and precision outfitting of your shoes. Climbers often find themselves focused on balance and body positioning, as the route blends finger cracks with technical face climbing in a way that feels both approachable and engaging.
The Kern River area demands respect beyond the route itself. The rock is sun-drenched for most of the day, making spring through early fall the optimal window for ascents. Early mornings and late afternoons provide pleasant shade, easing the heat and allowing your skin to recover from the friction demands of slab climbing. This area is a favored playground for climbers who appreciate a mix of traditional gear challenges paired with the security of fixed bolts in exposed terrain.
Approaching Chouinard Special is straightforward, with a well-defined trail leading toward the Kern Slabs. The short walk from the trailhead takes about 15 minutes, crossing a gently forested area that carries the fresh scent of pine and dry chaparral. The granite faces loom ahead, promising an invigorating climb unlocked by skillful hand jams and precision foot placements. Bring a 70-meter rope to safely rappel or lower off the bolted anchor—a 60-meter rope won’t quite make the descent. Gear up with small to medium nuts and cams to protect the crack section, supplemented by quickdraws to clip into the bolts on the face.
Locals note that although the technical grade is a mellow 5.8, the route demands thoughtful climbing technique and careful protection placement early on, making it a great test piece for both newcomers looking to build confidence on trad gear and experienced climbers seeking a clean Sierra slab experience. Keep an eye on weather, as granite slabs become dangerously slick when wet. Whether you're aiming for a flawless lead or a picturesque top-rope session, Chouinard Special rewards those who combine preparation with respect for the subtle challenges of slab and crack climbing in a classic California setting.
Be prepared for moderate runout on the upper face if you push beyond the primary pitch, as a seldom-climbed second pitch extends the adventure with more technical face climbing and careful route finding. The area's rugged beauty, combined with its straightforward access and manageable difficulty, makes Chouinard Special a rewarding gem in the Kernville climbing scene.
Be cautious when climbing the upper slab section—while bolted, the runout and smooth granite demand precise foot placements. Avoid climbing when the rock is wet, as the slab dries slowly and becomes dangerously slick. Also, the ledge anchor at the first bolt offers a solid belay spot but pushing higher demands attention to rope length.
Start early in the morning to avoid the intense midday sun on the slabs.
Bring a 70-meter rope to rappel safely from the bolted anchor.
Check weather forecasts—granite slabs become slippery when damp or wet.
Trust your footwork: slab climbing here rewards delicate balance and precise placements.
Begin with some wires and hand-sized cams to protect the initial 40-foot crack dihedral, then switch to quickdraws for clipping bolts on the slab. A 70-meter rope is essential to reach the bolted anchor and safely lower from the climb; 60 meters will fall short.
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