"Focused and precise, Choss Avoidance Syndrome challenges climbers to move cleanly through a short but demanding 50-foot climb in California’s Alabama Hills. Careful route reading keeps you above the loose rock, rewarding patient, deliberate movement on textured holds."
Choss Avoidance Syndrome offers a straightforward, unpretentious climbing experience in the stark beauty of California’s Alabama Hills. True to its name, the climb rewards careful route reading and deliberate movement, steering clear of loose rock to maximize flow and enjoyment. From the first grip on the orange patina plates to the final reach atop the black pillar, this short 50-foot route demands focus and precise footwork on stellar, textured holds. The starting section, left of a large hueco, features solid plates ideal for confident hand and footholds. The climb gains ground on clean, confident edges with thoughtfully spaced bolts protecting the way. A notable feature is a hollow, exfoliated flake hanging overhead during the mantle, which requires a gentle, inward pull if used—any rough yank risks dislodging it, reminding climbers that the rock’s character calls for respect.
Located in the Lone Pine area, this route sits amid a rugged landscape defined by weathered rock formations framed by wide desert skies. The approach is brief, with the desert sun beating down on the exposed quartz monzonite slabs, demanding climbers bring ample hydration and sunscreen. The single pitch is ideal for those seeking a concise yet rich climbing encounter with a balance of technical footwork and enjoyable movement on sound rock.
Though short, Choss Avoidance Syndrome isn't a climb to rush. The modest 5.9 rating reflects a route that feels approachable yet contains a subtle challenge in the crux — the mantle involving that precarious flake. It’s a test of composure as much as physical skill. Bolts are well-placed but don't allow for clipping missteps, so mid-climb awareness keeps the flow intact and the risk low.
This climb suits sport climbers who appreciate a technical touch on a route that rewards patience over brute strength. The anchor sits on a broad black pillar that offers a solid stance to catch your breath before descending or moving on. Expect minimal vegetation here, but keep an eye on your approach and anchor as desert winds and shifting rock can create unexpected hazards.
For those assembling gear, five bolts and a chain anchor mean minimal rack needs, but emphasize quick clipping and smooth transitions. Recent climbing traffic suggests the route's rock and holds are generally stable, but the named "choss avoidance" principle here is a lasting reminder: select holds intentionally, climbers. This route is as much about reading the rock as it is about climbing it.
In sum, Choss Avoidance Syndrome is a concentrated slice of Alabama Hills climbing — small but detailed, inviting climbers to move with precision, avoid the loose, and enjoy textured, confident sequences on one of California’s compelling desert walls.
The hollow exfoliated flake above the mantle is unstable. Avoid pulling it outward, and use it only for gentle support. Loose rock can be a hazard if poor route choices are made.
Stay left of the large hueco at the start to find the best holds on orange patina plates.
Be gentle with the hollow flake above the mantle—pull down, not out, to avoid dislodging it.
Bring plenty of water and sun protection; the area is exposed to intense desert heat.
Clip meticulously — bolts are well placed but require clean execution for a smooth climb.
Five bolts spaced to protect the single 50-foot pitch, ending in a chain anchor. Minimal gear needed beyond quickdraws and standard sport climbing rack.
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