HomeClimbingChoshawk (aka Rotten Worthless Route)

Choshawk (aka Rotten Worthless Route) Joshua Tree Trad Climb

Joshua Tree, California United States
shallow crack
flaring sections
mantle crux
gritty rock
single pitch
desert
Joshua Tree
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Choshawk (aka Rotten Worthless Route)
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Choshawk challenges climbers with a gritty, shallow crack on Joshua Tree’s rugged walls. This single-pitch trad route offers a technical crux and raw desert climbing that demands steady nerve and precise gear placements."

Choshawk (aka Rotten Worthless Route) Joshua Tree Trad Climb

Choshawk, often known by its less flattering nickname "Rotten Worthless Route," offers an unpolished but rewarding test of trad skills on the storied rocks of Joshua Tree National Park. This single-pitch 70-foot climb starts with a shallow, bottomed-out crack just right of the iconic Hawk’s Nest. The crack feels honest and raw, its parallel-sided slots inviting fingers and hands to seek secure placements amidst flaring sections that demand careful judgment. The rock’s gritty texture is a constant companion—rough and tactile—reminding you that this route isn’t about polished finesse but gritty determination and steady commitment.

The real challenge awaits mid-route in a tricky crux—a flare that forces a narrow, awkward move followed by a balancy mantle that tests core tension and foot precision. The climb’s character lies in these moments where balance and technique supplant brute strength. Protection is straightforward, mostly in the range from .5 to 4 inches, with the recommendation to carry doubles in the 1-2 inch range as life insurance against the varying crack widths. Anchor placements vary in size, offering options that require confidence and a keen eye.

Approaching Choshawk drops you into the heart of the Hawk Hatchery within Joshua Tree, a place that offers wide-open desert views, golden light filtering over rugged boulders, and a sense of solitude despite its popularity. The approach is manageable but demands respect for the desert heat and rugged terrain—proper footwear with stiff soles is essential to negotiate the rocky ground, and ample water will guard against Joshua Tree’s relentless sun.

Choshawk isn’t a climb for those after perfect holds or easy ratings; it’s a route for the climber eager to embrace the natural, weathered landscape in all its rawness. The route’s moderate 5.10a PG13 rating can feel slightly stiff where the crux forces precise body positioning on marginal holds. Local climbers compare it to other technical cracks in the park but emphasize its unique personality born from gritty rock and subtle movement.

In planning your climb, aim for early morning or late afternoon sessions to avoid the sun’s full blast, as the east-southeast aspect offers little protection at midday. Descending is straightforward via a walk-off scramble, but loose scree and rocky footing on the trail make cautious steps mandatory. With the right gear and mindset, Choshawk makes for a compelling outing where the desert’s rugged character is felt intimately beneath your fingertips. It’s a climb that rewards patience and precision, cloaked in the stark beauty that defines Joshua Tree.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on the gritty, somewhat loose rock around the crux flare—ensure solid gear placements and mind sharp edges that could damage ropes or feet. The approach involves loose scree that demands careful footing to avoid slips in the heat.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid extreme midday heat in the desert.

Wear shoes with stiff soles to navigate the rocky, uneven approach.

Bring at least two liters of water for hydration on the trail.

Practice precise footwork to manage the tricky flare and mantle moves.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a PG13 rating feels honest with a technical crux requiring balance and finesse rather than power. The flare move and mantle elevate the difficulty just enough to challenge climbers comfortable in the low 5.10 range. Compared to other trad cracks in Joshua Tree, it leans toward the stiffer side due to its awkward movement and less obvious feet.

Gear Requirements

Prepare with cams ranging from .5 to 4 inches, bringing doubles in 1-2 inch sizes for secure placements. Anchors vary in size, so bring a versatile rack to confidently protect the flare and mantle crux.

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Tags

shallow crack
flaring sections
mantle crux
gritty rock
single pitch
desert
Joshua Tree