5.9, Trad
Twentynine Palms
California ,United States
"Chosen Family offers a compact trad climb in Joshua Tree that tests your crack climbing finesse over a brief, engaging finger crack. Ideal for trad climbers seeking a swift yet technical desert challenge just steps from Indian Cove Campground."
Chosen Family is a succinct yet rewarding trad climb tucked into the rugged terrain of Clump Canyon near Indian Cove Campground, within Joshua Tree National Park. The route offers just under 40 feet of climbing, but every move counts as you navigate a distinctive finger crack that challenges climbers with an early 5.7 move to reach a stable ledge. This initial maneuver lets you settle into the rhythm before the crack widens and leans right, easing at a lower angle toward the summit. Along the way, a hardy scrubby bush clings to the lower section of the crack, lending a touch of wild character to the climb and reminding you that nature has its own voice here.
Unlike longer, more committing routes in the park, Chosen Family rewards quick decision-making and delicate crack climbing skills. It demands clean technique on hands and fingers with a standard rack of gear. Protection is straightforward, making it a solid choice for climbers sharpening their crack climbing ability or those seeking a focused, technical route in a stunning desert setting. The rock's coarse texture offers reassuring friction even on the smoother sections, but the moderate angle encourages maintaining balance and precise footwork rather than brute strength.
The approach to the climb is an adventure itself, beginning near Indian Cove Campground—a hub for climbers and desert enthusiasts alike—then threading through Joshua Tree’s iconic juniper and pinyon pines. The trail is well-trodden but uneven, with desert brush brushing your legs and dry creek beds inviting you to pause and listen to the desert winds. Plan for roughly a 15-minute hike from the parking area, with GPS coordinates 34.09367 latitude and -116.16107 longitude marking the climbing area.
Joshua Tree’s clear desert skies and broad views make timing important. Mid-morning to early afternoon offers the best light and warmth without overheating on the rock, especially in cooler months from late fall to early spring. The north to northeast facing wall captures just the right balance of sun and shade, so bringing layered clothing is advised. Hydration is essential—despite the short approach and climb, desert air quickly drains your reserves.
For those intrigued by quick, accessible trad lines with authentic desert character, Chosen Family serves as an inviting challenge. The route blends the intimacy of crack climbing with the grandeur of Joshua Tree’s distinctive landscape. It’s not a long haul, but it leaves a lasting impression through its mixture of subtle technical demands and the untamed spirit found only on this desert stone.
With a modest 5.9 rating that feels accurate if not slightly generous, the climb holds a satisfying crux in the opening moves before relaxing into a more comfortable finish. This route pairs perfectly with nearby climbs for an afternoon of moderate adventure without the commitment of extensive pitches. Whether you’re honing crack skills or seeking a solid warm-up, Chosen Family offers a balance of practicality and desert allure in the heart of California’s climbing mecca.
Watch your footing as the initial moves demand careful placement on a mixed angle slab with some loose sand. The scrubby bush in the lower crack is harmless but can snag gear if you're not deliberate. Always verify stability of anchors and double-check your rack, as desert routes often lack extensive fixed protection.
Approach early in the day to avoid the afternoon desert heat.
Stick to footwear with good friction for the coarse Joshua Tree rock.
Bring enough water—dehydration happens fast in this dry climate.
Check the weather forecast; sudden thunderstorms can arrive unexpectedly in the desert.
A standard trad rack is sufficient for Chosen Family. Expect reliable placements in the finger crack, with ample opportunities for small to medium cams and nuts. The protection is straightforward, with no known tricky gear sections, making the route accessible for climbers with basic trad gear skills.
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