Chorro Willows Overhang - Steep Climbs in Shaded San Luis Obispo Hills

San Luis Obispo, California
short routes
steep climbing
shaded
poison oak caution
local favorite
aid climbing
Length: 138 ft
Type: Mixed
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
San Luis Obispo Regional Climbing Area
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chorro Willows Overhang offers a compact climbing playground of short, steep routes shaded by tall pines in San Luis Obispo County. Ideal for climbers seeking quick yet intense climbing sessions away from crowds, this area blends technical challenges with a quiet, forested setting."

Chorro Willows Overhang - Steep Climbs in Shaded San Luis Obispo Hills

Chorro Willows Overhang offers a compact but intriguing climbing experience just north of the well-known Rock Land area in San Luis Obispo County, California. This spot features a handful of short, steep routes that provide a welcome change of pace for climbers looking to challenge themselves on varied terrain without committing to a long approach or day in the mountains. The climbing here sits at approximately 138 feet in elevation, and while the formations are small in scale, they pack a solid punch in terms of steepness and technical interest.

Approaching the area requires a short, straightforward hike that serves up an immersive taste of California’s rugged Central Coast landscape. After parking in a dirt pullout just a quarter mile north of the main Rock Land parking, avoid blocking the gate and follow a brief 10-minute walk around the gate and up the road until you reach a fence. From there, a left turn onto a footpath leads you uphill toward a stand of tall pine trees before descending the backside of the hill to the rock formations. This approach is quick, well-marked, and offers a refreshing moment of quiet forest before arriving at the climbing.

The rock itself isn’t extensively described, but the area’s shaded aspects provide relief from direct sun throughout much of the day, making it an inviting destination when temperatures climb in the warmer months. Some caution is advised around poison oak, which grows near the trail and climbing zones, so make sure to keep an eye out to avoid irritating contact. Despite the small size and short routes, Chorro Willows Overhang has an undeniable appeal for local climbers and those scouting new terrain in the county – it's a spot that invites exploration with the promise of steep, technical boulder problems and routes that test finger strength and precision.

Among the climbs here, two stand out – Chorro Willows Aid Climb, rated 5.6, and Orb Weaver, clocking in at 5.10d. These routes represent the range of challenges offered at Chorro Willows, making it suitable for climbers with varying skill levels looking for something fresh to conquer. Given the steepness noted, these climbs lean toward shorter, intense bursts of movement rather than sustained endurance pitches.

Since the area contains only a handful of routes, it’s the vibe and setting that draw climbers back rather than volume. The backdrop of San Luis Obispo’s rolling hills and pine-scented air makes for a peaceful day of climbing without the crowds that more famous California crags can attract. It’s also a practical choice for a quick outing – perfect for an afternoon escape or to complement a larger trip in the region.

Safety-wise, watch carefully for poison oak during the approach and around the climbs. The gate access must not be blocked to preserve good relations with local landowners and to maintain access. Protection and gear specifics aren’t detailed, so climbers should bring a standard rack covering the moderate grades listed and be prepared for traditional protection or aid if attempting the rated climbs. The rock quality and exact style aren’t emphasized, so experienced climbers familiar with California limestone or sandstone should approach accordingly.

Chorro Willows Overhang sits within the broader San Luis Obispo area, offering a mellow, shaded climbing experience tucked just off the beaten path. This easy access coupled with a quiet, steep rock face makes it a smart pick for those hunting down fresh challenges or looking to avoid the heat and crowds. Whether you are honing your aid climbing techniques or testing your redpoint power on more technical moves, Chorro Willows welcomes you with steep holds, a natural canopy, and the promise of local exploration in California’s Central Coast range.

Plan your visit during spring and fall for ideal weather conditions, as the shaded routes will keep you comfortable even as temperatures rise. Remember to bring the essentials, monitor conditions for poison oak, and respect access points for a smooth, enjoyable outing. The experience here may be brief in mileage but rich with focus and variety, a compelling little destination for climbers with curiosity and an appetite for steep climbing under the pines.

Climber Safety

Stay vigilant for poison oak during the short but exposed approach and around the climbing areas. Do not block access gates when parking. Familiarize yourself with local protection needs, as gear specifics aren’t well documented and the steep climbing demands careful placement.

Area Details

TypeMixed
Pitchessingle pitch
Length138 feet

Local Tips

Park responsibly and do not block the gate at dirt pullout north of Rock Land main lot.

Follow the left-hand trail at the fence after a short hike to find the climbs atop the hill.

Prepare for poison oak exposure near the trail and climb areas.

Best climbing season is spring through fall; shaded routes offer relief from the summer sun.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The ratings here range from beginner to advanced moderate climbs, with the 5.6 aid climb and a 5.10d route offering solid challenges. The grades feel appropriate for the style – generally not sandbagged or overly soft – making this a reliable spot to sharpen technical skills. Compared to larger Central Coast venues, Chorro Willows is on the smaller side but holds a concentrated dose of steep terrain.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack suitable for moderate grades including trad and aid gear. Standard protection likely sufficient for the 5.6 and 5.10d routes. Watch for poison oak on approach and bring appropriate brush protection or long pants.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

short routes
steep climbing
shaded
poison oak caution
local favorite
aid climbing