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Chorizo Corner: A Precise Trad Climb at Lover's Leap

South Lake Tahoe, California United States
thin finger crack
right facing corner
loose blocks
single pitch
Sierra granite
micro nuts
technical moves
Hogsback
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chorizo Corner
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chorizo Corner is a focused single-pitch trad climb on Lover's Leap’s Hogsback that sharpens finger crack skills on a thin, right-facing corner. With technical moves bracketed by solid protection and a tricky loose block near the top, it offers a rewarding challenge for those ready to engage with classic Sierra granite."

Chorizo Corner: A Precise Trad Climb at Lover's Leap

Chorizo Corner offers climbers a focused taste of classic California trad climbing with a compact, technical line that demands finesse and thoughtful gear placement. Situated on Lover's Leap’s Hogsback buttress, this single-pitch route threads a crisp right-facing corner that tests finger strength and steady movement. After an easy start on solid dikes for the first 10 feet, the route shifts into a steeper, thinner crack where locks and delicate finger jams hold the key to maintaining upward momentum. Loose blocks near the upper section require careful negotiation, adding an element of cautious route-reading as you near the belay.

Protection is straightforward but requires micro nuts and smaller cams, with offset pieces proving particularly useful in the narrower crack sections. Two pitons guard the crux moves, rated 5.9, which combine subtle technical sequences and sustained hand jams. This section offers enough challenge to push your comfort zone without overextending, with positive holds occasionally emerging amid the thinner face climbing.

The route finishes at a two-piton belay tucked to the left of the loose blocks, though many climbers opt to traverse right to join the bolted anchor of the neighboring Prociutto climb for added security and convenience. The approach to the anchor deserves attention; a large, unstable flake looms nearby, so nimble footwork and care in arranging gear placements or belay setups is essential. A fall in this area risks disruption, not only for Chorizo Corner itself but also potentially impacting Prociutto's lower section.

For those assembling an outing to Lover’s Leap, Chorizo Corner pairs well with Prociutto and Swine Flu, crafting a trio of climbs that highlight the area’s signature granite features and classic crack climbing style. The rock, though slightly dusty on the face, reveals positive holds and solid features as the season warms, rewarding those who come prepared for variable conditions with crisp granite and a rewarding sustained effort.

Approach the wall from the paved parking at the Lover’s Leap trailhead, a short hike along a forested, well-marked path that settles into gentle rocky terrain. The climb sits at around 70 feet, easily manageable as a single-pitch route, and perfect for climbers seeking to refine crack technique in a focused setting without the complications of a multi-pitch descent.

As always, bring gear suited for small cams (from micro to 2-inch range), a full set of nuts, and a keen eye for loose blocks near the top. Keeping a light footprint when working the anchors helps protect the rock and preserve quality for all. Timing your climb in the late spring through early fall offers dry, stable conditions and comfortable temperatures under California’s high Sierra sun. With its precise crux, deliberate protection, and classic crack moves, Chorizo Corner stands out as an essential stop for trad climbers eager to test their skill on Lover’s Leap’s iconic granite walls.

Climber Safety

The large loose flake near the belay is a serious hazard; always move left of it when approaching the anchor and avoid placing protection that might disturb its stability. A fall or rockfall here could affect both this climb and Prociutto, so keep communication clear and gear placements solid.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Pay close attention to the large loose flake near the upper belay and move carefully to avoid dislodging it.

Approach via the Lover’s Leap trailhead; the hike is short with well-marked forested trails and gentle terrain.

Bring a light rack focusing on small cams and micro nuts to maximize protection options in thin cracks.

Climb best under dry spring to early fall conditions to avoid dust or wet rock on the face.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade feels fairly stiff on this route, especially through the crux section protected by two pitons. The thin crack demands finger strength and precise footwork, testing climbers beyond simply holding on. Compared to nearby Prociutto (.10b), Chorizo Corner provides a sustained challenge with delicate locks and hand jams that remain engaging throughout the climb.

Gear Requirements

You'll want a set of micro nuts including offsets, alongside medium-sized stoppers and small cams ranging from 0.3 to 0.75 inches, plus one piece sized 1 to 2 inches. Two pitons protect the crux section around 5.9 which demands secure, precise placements.

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Tags

thin finger crack
right facing corner
loose blocks
single pitch
Sierra granite
micro nuts
technical moves
Hogsback