"Choo Choo Charley delivers a concise, single-pitch sport climb rated 5.9 that balances technical moves with stunning views of Coal Creek Canyon. Perfect for climbers looking to refine their technique in a natural setting minutes from Boulder."
Set against the rugged backdrop of Coal Creek Canyon, Choo Choo Charley offers climbers a compact yet rewarding challenge. This single-pitch, 60-foot sport route commands attention with its clean bolts and steady 5.9 rating, inviting climbers to focus on technique without worrying about gear placement. As you ascend, the rock’s texture provides reliable edges and pockets that hold your grip while your eyes are drawn to the sweeping views below. The canyon’s pine-laced slopes descend sharply to reveal the winding tributary and the old railroad tracks threading through the valley, a reminder of the enduring human spirit alongside nature’s tenacity. The climb’s exposure is modest but enough to give a satisfying sense of height, especially when the sun spills onto the face in afternoon light, warming the stone and bringing every hold into crisp relief.
Located approximately ten miles west of Boulder, Colorado, this route is an accessible getaway for climbers seeking a quick and engaging sport climb with scenic rewards. The hike to the base is unassuming—a short walk through mixed forest and rocky terrain that prepares you for the focused effort ahead. Because the route is bolted and relatively short, it’s ideal for those who want to sharpen their 5.9 skills, from controlled stemming to pulling through the crux without the distraction of complicated gear.
Climbers should note that traffic on the single pitch can create brief waits during peak hours, but the open stance of the crag allows for ample room to belay and regroup. The bolted protection ensures a secure ascent, though the rock can be a bit rough on skin and shoes, so sturdy climbing shoes and taping fingers might be prudent. Afternoons offer the best lighting both for climbing and photography, while mornings tend to hold shadows in the canyon’s folds, keeping the rock cooler.
Choo Choo Charley’s straightforward nature makes it a perfect climb for a midday adventure or a training session for a longer outing nearby. Its location within Coal Creek Canyon adds value beyond the climb itself, with opportunities for exploration along the creek’s edge and nearby dirt roads for easy hiking or mountain biking. Whether you’re pushing your limits or simply enjoying the blend of climbing and scenery, this route offers a reliable and memorable experience just a short drive from the city’s pulse.
Although well-protected, watch your footing on the approach trail, which can be uneven with loose rocks and pine needles. Stay alert for weather shifts that can quickly cool the canyon and create slick rock surfaces.
Start in the afternoon for optimal sun and warmth on the rock.
Wear climbing shoes with good edging support; the holds can be small and precise.
Tape fingers if your skin tends to be sensitive on rough, sandstone-like textures.
Arrive early on weekends to beat potential waiting times at the base.
Fully bolted with solid fixed protection, bringing your standard sport rack is all that’s needed. The bolts are well placed, minimizing runouts and allowing for confident moves.
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