"Chompin' at the Cholla offers a quick but intricate sport climb at Cactus Cliff, blending a demanding slab start with a steep, jug-filled roof. Though short, it delivers sharp technical moves and a fun finish that appeals to climbers seeking a varied, engaging 5.9 challenge near Canon City."
Chompin' at the Cholla stands out as a swift yet compelling sport climb carved into the sun-baked walls of Cactus Cliff near Canon City, Colorado. This single-pitch route stretches 55 feet, offering a nuanced climb that shifts abruptly from sharp, demanding slab work into a steep, gym-like roof section. The initial moves ask for focused precision on a slick black slab peppered with pockets and jugs—expect to engage your balance and footwork while navigating thin contacts. Resist the temptation to lean on the weathered pillar just a few feet right of the start; it's fragile and unreliable, so commit fully to the slab for a clean ascent. After negotiating the delicate first half, the rock suddenly changes character—becoming more textured and steep, rewarding climbers with a series of hand-jugs and perfectly positioned footholds that feel almost manufactured. This contrast defines the route and makes it memorable despite its brief length.
Cactus Cliff itself is a quietly rugged climbing area, modest in height but rich with warm, sun-drenched granite surfaces that challenge technique more than raw strength. Situated along Shelf Road, the approach is straightforward, with well-marked trails that wind through sparse desert vegetation. Early spring and late fall are prime climbing seasons here, when temperatures strike a perfect balance between coolness and sun exposure. Timing your climb to mid-morning or late afternoon can make a difference—avoiding the high sun on the slab enhances friction and comfort.
For those packing the gear, eight bolts provide solid protection throughout the route, capped off by a reliable anchor system at the top. While placements are secure, the moves near the roof demand confident clipping and efficient movement to conserve energy before the final quick clip and clip-anchor sequence. This climb fits well within the 5.9 realm, though the initial slab section may feel more delicate and technical, demanding a bit of finesse before the crux in the roof. Ideal for climbers looking to blend slab technique with steep jugs, it’s a perfect introduction to the varied rock character typical of Shelf Road.
Local climbers often advise focusing your attention on foot placement near the start and maintaining calm during the balance-dependent slab moves. Wearing climbing shoes with a precise edge will improve your grip on the thin footholds, and carrying a chalk bag will help counteract the fine desert dust that can settle in pockets. Given the route’s brevity, consider warming up on nearby easier climbs before tackling Chompin' at the Cholla to maximize flow and confidence.
Descending from the anchor is simple: a single rappel or a careful downclimb on the route’s easier descent terrain leads back to the trail. Watch out for loose rock near the base, especially around the weathered pillar area, and be mindful of desert flora that can snag gear or clothing. Although short, this route packs a punch of variety and training value, making it a hidden gem for sport climbers craving a slice of Colorado’s rich climbing palette.
The slab’s rock is sharp and somewhat brittle near the opening moves, so avoid loose features such as the small broken pillar to the right. Additionally, keep an eye out for desert plants around the base which can be sharp or snag gear.
Avoid using the broken pillar near the start—it's unstable and could cause falls.
Time your climb for morning or late afternoon to avoid the hot midday sun on the slab.
Use climbing shoes with sharp edging to handle the thin, technical slab footholds.
Chalk up well before the steep roof section to maintain a secure grip on jugs.
The route is secured by 8 bolts and a solid anchor system. Clipping is straightforward but requires attention at the roof crux; bring a standard sport rack with quickdraws sized for 5.9 extensions.
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