"This 50-foot trad climb in Joshua Tree’s Real Hidden Valley offers a gritty double crack line with demanding footwork and protection that keeps you sharp. Ideal for intermediate climbers, it balances steady jams with the thrill of thin gear placements on less-traveled rock."
Set against the rugged expanse of Joshua Tree National Park, the route known as Chocolate is Better Than Sex offers a raw, hands-on trad climbing experience that challenges both technique and rock sense. Located on the east side of the Thin Wall in the Real Hidden Valley, this single-pitch climb stretches approximately 50 feet up a striking double crack system that demands steady, confident jams. The rock here shows its character — weathered with a rough surface and scattered with shedding crystals — creating a gritty texture beneath your fingers and feet that keeps you alert every moment.
From the base, the initial double crack splits the rock face, guiding you vertically with a clear line that converges near the top where a bulge presents a brief crux. The crack widens and narrows through the ascent, offering ample placements for cams and tricams but requiring careful evaluation; the protection isn’t foolproof due to the flaring and rounded nature of the fissure. For climbers comfortable on 5.8 terrain, this route feels true to grade, perhaps even a touch soft compared to its 5.9- R rating, but the loose rock and protection challenges add a layer of mental engagement.
The setting itself enhances the experience — dry desert winds brush the rock face, and the open valley below stretches toward Joshua Tree’s familiar desert silhouettes. Approaching the climb means navigating the boulder-strewn, scrub-lined path through Real Hidden Valley, a quick but uneven hike that prepares your muscles and focus for what lies ahead. Morning light hits the face at an angle that reduces heat and glare, making early starts an ideal way to avoid the afternoon sun's intensity.
This route isn’t recommended for beginners due to its moderately serious protection and tricky placements, but for the adventurous intermediate climber, it’s a rewarding taste of Joshua Tree’s less crowded faces. Expect to spend time honing your crack climbing technique here, where jams need to be deliberate and body positioning steady. Be ready for a brief but demanding effort that will test your route-reading skills as much as your strength.
Plan to bring a standard trad rack with a focus on mid-sized cams and tricams, and anticipate the need to assess each placement carefully, given the flaring cracks and somewhat unpredictable rock quality. The area sees low traffic compared to more popular routes nearby, offering a quieter experience for those seeking solitude and focused climbing. After topping out, a short walk leads back to the trailhead, allowing you to savor desert views and digest the climb’s technical nuances.
Rock quality is patchy with shedding crystals; double-check each placement and avoid trusting flakes fully. The climb’s protection is moderately sparse and the cracks flare unpredictably, making it less forgiving for beginners or climbers uncomfortable with runouts.
Start climbs early to avoid the harsh desert sun and benefit from cooler rock temperatures.
Use climbing shoes with solid edging to navigate the flared crack sections more effectively.
Assess each protection placement thoroughly—loose flakes can make pro unreliable.
Hydrate well before approach; the trail is exposed and dry with limited shade.
Bring a standard trad rack emphasizing cams and tricams in mid-range sizes; protection demands careful placement in flaring, sometimes rounded cracks backed by loose crystal flakes.
Upload your photos of Chocolate is Better Than Sex and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.