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Chocolate Chips (aka Omaha Beach) at North Cave Rock

Joshua Tree, California United States
5.8
trad
single pitch
desert
Joshua Tree
bolted anchor
tight gear placements
scramble approach
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chocolate Chips (aka Omaha Beach)
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chocolate Chips stands out as a straightforward trad climb on North Cave Rock’s west face. With modern bolts complementing solid trad gear, it offers a reliable, accessible 5.8 pitch perfect for early desert mornings and climbers seeking an inviting challenge in Joshua Tree National Park."

Chocolate Chips (aka Omaha Beach) at North Cave Rock

Perched on the west face of North Cave Rock, Chocolate Chips, also known among locals as Omaha Beach, offers a compact but rewarding trad climb with a clear view across to Ryan Mountain’s parking lot. This single-pitch, 60-foot ascent combines straightforward sequences with a few tested moves that keep climbers engaged without overwhelming complexity. The rock here feels solid, worn smooth by time, yet the route retains enough texture to give a real sense of connection with the climb. Two recently installed 3/8-inch bolts provide added security – a nod to modern climbers – though the first bolt has vanished, demanding careful navigation early on.

The line leans into a balanced challenge: comfortable for those who have stepped into 5.8 territory but still holding a subtle tension at the crux, where the third, original black bolt guards against an ambitious fall. Thoughtfully placed chains top out the climb, welcoming climbers with reliable anchors after the effort. The route sits in Joshua Tree National Park’s Sheep Pass Area, a spot known for its stark beauty and quiet mornings where rock and sky stretch uninterrupted.

Approaching Chocolate Chips is an exercise in simplicity. A brief trek along the well-marked Cave Corridor trail delivers you steadily upward amidst rugged desert brush, punctuated by the occasional creak of juniper branches swaying overhead. The path is rocky but straightforward—no need for scrambling or bushwhacking. Arrive with steady footwear and water close at hand; in this dry climate, hydration can quickly become a decisive factor.

Protection on this route benefits from a mix of vintage and refreshed hardware. The two fresh bolts complement the original third, though vigilance is paramount when clipping, especially near the missing first bolt. A standard trad rack suffices, but be ready for subtle placements where gear spots can feel tight. Thanks to the recent maintenance work, the route now strikes a balance between classic trad adventure and modern safety standards.

While the climb’s character suits a morning ascent when shadows soften the rock face, afternoons can mean sun exposure, raising temperatures sharply. Spring and fall bring the most comfortable climbing windows, while summers demand early starts or late finishes to avoid the desert heat. The descent is uncomplicated—a short walk off the top, guiding you safely back to the trailhead without the need for rappelling or complex downclimbs.

Chocolate Chips is a modest but satisfying challenge that captures the essence of Joshua Tree’s climbing heritage: straightforward, rugged, and intimately tied to the desert’s rhythms. Whether you’re shaking out gear or soaking in the open sky, this route offers a tangible taste of trad climbing’s straightforward joy amid one of California’s iconic outdoor playgrounds.

Climber Safety

The missing first bolt means the start demands extra caution when clipping and placing gear. The rock is generally solid but check each hold for stability. Given the desert environment, be mindful of dehydration and sun exposure throughout your climb and approach.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early in the day to avoid intense afternoon sun on the west face.

Bring at least one full water bottle—dry desert air quickly drains hydration.

Double-check your protection near the missing first bolt, and clip carefully.

Spring and fall provide the most comfortable temperatures for climbing here.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.8, Chocolate Chips works well as a moderate trad pitch suitable for climbers comfortable with this grade’s typical balance of moves and gear management. While the overall difficulty feels true to grade, the crux near the third bolt adds a punch, requiring precise footwork and trust in your placements. Compared to other Joshua Tree climbs in this range, it offers a slightly less polished edge with its mix of bolts and trad pro, creating a purposeful and engaging experience.

Gear Requirements

The route features two new 3/8-inch bolts installed alongside the original black third bolt, with chain anchors in good condition at the top. A standard trad rack is adequate, but be prepared for tight gear placements near the crux. Note that the original first bolt is missing, so pay close attention when clipping early.

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Tags

5.8
trad
single pitch
desert
Joshua Tree
bolted anchor
tight gear placements
scramble approach