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Chock Stone at Castle Rock: A Short Trad Challenge for Tired Arms

Los Gatos, California United States
stem moves
dihedral
short climb
trad gear
roof crux
top-rope anchor
Length: 45 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chock Stone
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chock Stone offers a short but satisfying trad challenge amidst the sandstone cliffs of Castle Rock. Perfect for climbers with tired arms, this route combines stemming moves with a powerful 5.8 bulge crux in just 45 feet."

Chock Stone at Castle Rock: A Short Trad Challenge for Tired Arms

Chock Stone presents a compact but engaging trad climb tucked into the rugged confines of Castle Rock Proper, part of California’s iconic San Francisco Bay Area climbing scene. Positioned just left of the moderate 5.5 summit route and flanked by a massive cave to the right, this 45-foot climb offers a unique opportunity to test your technique and stamina without demanding a full-day commitment. The route features a pronounced dihedral—a natural, inward-angled crack system only about 30 feet high—allowing climbers to rely heavily on stemming, a move where opposing pressure is applied using hands and feet on both sides of the corner. This makes Chock Stone a practical choice when the arms are already feeling the fatigue from longer or more strenuous climbs nearby.

Starting with relatively straightforward moves, the climb flows until you reach a distinctive 5.8 bulge or roof that marks the crux. This section requires a blend of power and technique, as you navigate an overhanging feature that demands careful foot placements and confident hand jams to inch past the challenge. Once over the crux, the climbing eases considerably, providing a satisfying payoff that rewards the effort with easier scrambling to the top anchor.

Protection on Chock Stone is straightforward but calls for traditional gear savvy. There’s no bolted anchor at the problem itself, but climbers can top-rope by ascending the nearby summit route and using a natural rock hole, combined with a solid single bolt, to fashion a reliable equalized anchor system. This method ensures safety without compromising the climb’s natural character. Although the route is brief, its position within Castle Rock gives climbers access to stunning views and the chance to immerse themselves in the area’s rugged sandstone walls and forested surroundings.

This climb is an excellent option for those looking to sharpen their trad skills in a low-commitment package or to stretch out parts of their body when other climbs have taken their toll. The rock’s texture offers dependable friction, and the dihedral's shape feels almost inviting as it offers rests along the way. Remember to wear sturdy shoes with good edging ability and bring a set of traditional cams and nuts that fit smaller cracks, as the placements here require precision and attention.

Castle Rock itself is well-loved for its varied terrain, ranging from easy scrambles to steeper trad lines. Its proximity to San Francisco Bay means climbers benefit from mild weather year-round, though mornings and late afternoon often bring the best light and cooler air. The approach to Chock Stone involves a short hike on well-maintained trails through shaded groves of oaks and firs, setting the scene with the quiet sounds of wind through branches and distant bird calls.

For those planning their day, bringing at least two liters of water is advisable, and starting early can help you avoid warmer midday temperatures. A lightweight helmet is recommended to protect against occasional rockfall, especially near the summit area. Though the climb feels accessible, respect for Castle Rock’s natural environment and cautious route-finding will ensure a rewarding experience every time.

Climber Safety

Be cautious of loose rock around the roof bulge and at the top anchor area. The approach to the anchor requires care when rigging as the natural hole offers limited space, so ensure your anchor is equalized and secure before climbing or descending.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Use the summit route to gain access to the top-rope anchor; avoid rigging direct anchors on this climb’s shorter walls.

Start early to catch cooler morning temperatures and reduce exposure to sun mid-climb.

Bring cams sized for small cracks and nuts for secure placements throughout the dihedral.

Wear shoes with precise edging to handle the bulge’s technical footwork effectively.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels accurate, but the presence of the roof crux can add a brief punch of difficulty that demands solid technique and body positioning. The grade isn’t overly stiff but requires confidence in stemming and roof transitions. Compared to other moderate Castle Rock climbs, Chock Stone stands out for its unique blend of technical stem moves and a distinct bulge crux in a condensed distance.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full set of traditional protection tight-fitting to small cracks, plus gear for a top-rope anchor including slings and a quickdraw for the bolt at the natural hole. Stemming skills and comfort on roof moves will help you navigate the crux smoothly.

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Tags

stem moves
dihedral
short climb
trad gear
roof crux
top-rope anchor