"Explore Chippy, a compact 50-foot slab route in Unicorn Valley known for clean movement over a bulge and along a sharp arete. Ideal for climbers honing balance and technical footwork in the South Platte region."
Chippy stands out in the South Platte climbing scene as a straightforward, short sport climb that rewards focus and composure. Located in the stark terrain of Unicorn Valley beneath the rugged contours of Devil's Head, this 50-foot route threads a slabby face punctuated by a distinctive bulge and a sharp arete. The rock’s texture invites steady footwork and careful edging, demanding a balance between trust in your feet and measured hand placements.
From the base, the climb offers an immediate engagement with a smooth slab leading to a welcoming ledge. Here, the challenge intensifies as you negotiate a bulging section that tests your ability to stay centered and controlled. Moving left along the arete just beside the characteristic water groove, you find a rhythm that carries you to a solid anchor station secured by eight bolts.
Unicorn Valley’s setting enhances the experience with dry air and the occasional whisper of pine needle breezes brushing the face. The approach crosses open rocky terrain characteristic of the Devil’s Head region, where early morning light casts sharp shadows and late afternoon brings cooler relief.
Chippy’s concise length and moderate difficulty make it an excellent option for climbers sharpening their technique on slab and balance moves or those looking for a quick, rewarding climb after a day of longer routes. Expect mostly accessible terrain but remain mindful that precision matters more than brute strength here. The fixed bolts provide solid protection, but climbers should bring eight quickdraws and gear for anchors to ensure a smooth ascent.
Planning your climb around mid to late spring through early fall offers the best weather window, avoiding winter’s chill that can harden the stone and sap your grip. Light layers work best, and a pair of shoes with reliable edging capabilities will make a significant difference in your performance. The approach is short and straightforward, but good footwear is essential for stable footing on the slabby base.
In essence, Chippy is a gateway to the subtle challenges and rewards of slab climbing within a unique Colorado landscape. The route’s clean lines and clear protection allow climbers to focus on the crisp technical moves and soak in the surrounding panoramas that stretch from this quiet corner of South Platte.
The slabby face can be deceptively slippery if damp or covered in fine dust. Climbers should assess conditions carefully before ascent, especially after rain. Anchors are fixed and reliable but always worth double-checking before lowering or rappelling.
Approach early to enjoy cooler temperatures and avoid afternoon sun on the slab.
Shoes with a stiff, precise edge help maintain secure footing on the smooth rock.
Bring layers to adapt as the exposed approach can warm quickly under the midday sun.
Check anchor hardware before climbing; bolt integrity is generally good but vigilance matters.
Climbers should carry 8 quickdraws to clip the bolts and gear or slings for the anchors. The protection is spaced evenly and straightforward, with consistent bolt placements along the slab and bulge.
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