"Chinook is a short and sharp 5.9 trad route on Mt. Thorodin’s lesser-known third buttress. It challenges with a technical dihedral crux and rewards with stunning views over Golden Gate Canyon."
Chinook offers a compact but engaging trad climbing experience high above Golden Gate Canyon State Park, Colorado. This single-pitch 5.9 route wraps around a prominent dihedral pocketed at the base, challenging climbers with technical moves that demand focus and precision. The climb may be short—just 60 feet—but it packs a memorable punch with crisp holds and a clean face that rewards well-placed gear and careful footwork.
From the beginning, you’re met with rock that feels solid and weathered, forming a natural groove that guides your upward progress. The crux lies in that signature dihedral near the route’s base, where the wall tightens and the movement sharpens. Once past this, the route eases into more straightforward jamming and face climbing on smooth granite.
As you ascend, the landscape opens up behind you: sweeping views stretch across the canyon, the dense pine and fir groves dipping into the valley below, accented by the shimmer of distant rivers. The mountain air carries the subtle scent of earth and pines, while faint breezes seem to urge you onward and upwards. This connection to the environment becomes part of the climb’s draw—an active conversation between climber and crag.
Mt. Thorodin’s third buttress, where Chinook lives, hasn’t seen the same spotlight as its neighboring faces, lending a particular solitude and old-school charm. The route’s history remains somewhat shadowed, with the first known ascent noted but the wider story yet to be fully told. This sense of discovery adds to the appeal, inviting climbers to put their mark on a quieter corner of Colorado’s climbing scene.
Preparation here is straightforward but essential. A standard rack ranging from 0.3 to 3 inches is all you need to protect the climb safely, as Chinook shares anchor chains with the nearby Thorodin’s Hammer, simplifying your top-rope setup or rappel. The approach into the crag is moderate, with manageable terrain that requires a steady hike rather than a scramble, rewarding climbers with ample space and fewer crowds than the more popular Central City routes.
Those planning their ascent should consider early morning or late afternoon to avoid the strongest sun exposure, as the route faces southwest and can heat up in midday. Cooler seasons extend comfortable climbing windows, with fall and spring offering crisp temperatures and stable conditions.
Chinook delivers a balance of challenge and scenery in a compact package, perfect for trad climbers looking to expand beyond the well-traveled routes. Whether you’re sharpening skills on gear placements or simply thirsting for fresh alpine air and expansive views, this climb offers both in equal measure.
Be mindful of the dihedral area at the crux where some loose flakes can occur, especially after weather changes. Always test gear placements carefully, and wear a helmet to protect from occasional rockfall near the base.
Start early or late in the day to avoid strong midday sun on the exposed southwest face.
Bring a rack covering 0.3 to 3 inches for secure protection placements in the dihedral.
Check for loose rock near the base of the dihedral crux during your approach.
Share anchors with Thorodin’s Hammer to minimize gear haul and anchor setup time.
Standard trad rack with cams sized from 0.3 to 3 inches is recommended. The route shares anchor chains with Thorodin’s Hammer, simplifying top-rope and rappel setup.
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