"China Girl offers a compact but persistent trad challenge on the eastern ridge of Benton Crags. Starting from a shared ledge with Aladdin Sane, it pushes left up a delicate flake and through a dynamic roof section to finish on exposed face. Perfect for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills and trad strategy in iconic Sierra granite."
China Girl stands out as a focused trad climb on the eastern fringes of the Sierra Nevada, above the rugged spires of Benton Crags. This route begins its journey on the same ledge as the nearby Aladdin Sane but immediately demands attention by veering left onto a sharp, prominent flake. The climb quickly transitions from a simple approach into a technical ascent where you’ll negotiate a clean horizontal crack before navigating a subtle roof feature to move left and surge upward along the face to the anchor.
The rock here is classic Sierran granite—solid yet textured, offering positive edges and well-defined cracks that accommodate gear placements comfortably up to three inches. A single bolt, placed strategically, punctuates the protection, though most of the safety comes from natural gear. Expect to use a standard trad rack with a good selection of cams, especially in the larger sizes, as the crack systems vary in width along the way.
This one-pitch climb stretches over compact terrain but packs diversity in its features, from the flake's delicate balance to the roof’s subtle overhang demanding precise footwork and body tension. It offers just enough exposure to feel adventurous without overwhelming those newer to multi-pitch adventure. At roughly 5.9, China Girl is approachable yet tests climbers' route-finding and gear management skills, with a crux section around the roof that nudges the grade in difficulty.
The surrounding Eastern Hills of the Sierra Eastside provide a stark, dry environment with clear skies overhead most of the year, setting a backdrop of minimal shade which calls for early starts during warmer months. The approach involves a short trek from Wave Rock, moving through moderate terrain with granite slabs and sparse vegetation, arriving at the cliff base in 10–15 minutes. The area’s quiet seclusion appeals to climbers valuing peace alongside challenge.
For your ascent, sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber are essential to stick the technical moves on the flake and roof. Water is a must, as the arid landscape offers limited natural sources, and timing your climb to avoid midday heat will improve comfort and safety. Because the route finishes on an exposed face section, a helmet is advised not only for rockfall but to protect during the tricky traverse around the roof.
Descend by rappelling from the anchor station; a single rope rappel is sufficient but check your partner’s gear before committing, as the cliff drops sharply and footing at the base is uneven. The combination of practical gear beta and thoughtful route structure makes China Girl a rewarding trad option for climbers developing trad confidence while craving a route with character and punch on the Benton Crags.
Exercise caution around the roof traverse where loose blocks may occasionally dislodge. The approach terrain includes uneven granite slabs; good footwear and attention during approach and descent greatly reduce risk. Plan climbs outside the heat of day to avoid dehydration.
Start early to avoid the Southern California heat and maximize shade on the approach.
Use sticky-soled shoes for better grip on flake and roof moves.
Helmet is essential due to occasional loose rock near the roof section.
Carry enough water—no dependable sources exist near the climb.
This route requires a trad rack including cams up to 3 inches and a single fixed bolt for anchor. Protective placements in horizontal and flake cracks are reliable but benefit from precise sizing to prevent slippage. Bring a standard rack with emphasis on mid to large cams.
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