China Doll carves a rare and challenging path up Lost Angel’s Upper Dream Canyon, offering climbers a gritty blend of old-school aid and technical free moves in a rugged Boulder setting. This six-pitch route spans roughly 350 feet, winding through a right-arching dihedral that leans heavily on traditional protection mixed with fixed gear, demanding a sharp focus and a well-rounded rack. Approaching the climb, you’ll be met with rock that feels alive–harsh yet offering pockets and placements that reward persistence. The climb’s character evolves pitch-by-pitch, shifting from straightforward aid moves to a series of delicate, tension-filled sequences that require both creativity and composure.

The route begins with three distinct starting lines, each offering a variation in challenge and style. One option follows a direct line past bolts to an anchor, threading moves that flirt with 5.9 difficulty before entering the aid ground. Another start traces a brief free climb that leans on a few bolts and technical hooks, while the third clings to more traditional cracks running between those two. Once engaged, the right-facing dihedral beckons, reminiscent of Yosemite’s classic corners but with that Boulder grit–a little rougher, a little less polished. Ascenders will find themselves placing small cams, hanging on hooks, and navigating a complex mix of old bolts and pins that hint at the route’s lineage.

Midway up, the climb grows more demanding on P3 and P4 as the crack widens and the terrain becomes less predictable. Here, the rock’s personality shifts; the slab beneath exfoliative flakes warns you to pick your spots carefully, and the roof that caps the dihedral invokes a sense of vertical tension. Hook placements become key and the looseness of certain features tests your trust in gear and technique alike. The crux lies in the fourth pitch, where you move with calculated precision over tenuous edges and under an overhang–a section where aid climbing meets problem-solving in real time.

Protection on China Doll requires thorough planning: double racks of small and mid-sized cams, a set of wires, hooks, Lowe balls, tricams (red and black), and an assortment of slings and biners fill out the gear list. Expect to place everything from 0.33 Aliens to #4 Camalots, as the route demands versatility. Modern bolts, fixed pins, and carefully embedded leapers provide additional security but don’t rely solely on them; the rock can be crumbly, especially around flake systems, so solid placements and backup equals safety.

Timing is crucial when tackling China Doll. The route comes into direct sun around 1 p.m., which can escalate heat and dehydration risk especially in summer’s dry air. Bringing at least a gallon of water is essential. Visualize the setting as you approach: a quiet slice of Lost Angel that keeps climbers largely off the beaten track, buffered by Boulder’s energetic bustle just beyond the horizon. The approach follows trails weaving through a dappled forest cover before you reach the base, where the rock stands tall and waiting, daring you to push up and into its folds.

Descending requires care — rappel from the modern Fixe two-bolt anchors located near the upper pitches with two ropes. Double ropes ease the rappel and reduce rope drag. Be ready for some awkward semi-hanging stances, so secure your positions and double-check your setups. The approach and descent demand good route-finding skills in this area, as the canyon’s geographic complexity can confuse without a clear plan.

China Doll isn’t for the faint of heart or rookies. It challenges those ready to commit to a full day, testing endurance, aid technique, and mental grit. Yet the rewards are tangible: a climb that tells a story through its placements, its angles, and its subtle rewards—moments where the gritty rock feels like a partner responding to your moves. For aid climbers looking to break new ground in Boulder’s pockets of adventure, China Doll represents a compelling objective that demands respect and preparation in equal measure.