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Chimps Ahoy: A Compact Sport Climb in Malibu Creek

Malibu, California United States
sport climbing
roof section
single pitch
steep start
Malibu Creek
California
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chimps Ahoy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chimps Ahoy delivers a brief but intense sequence, kicking off with a steep lead into a technical roof before easing into an enjoyable cruise. This Malibu Creek sport climb is perfect for climbers targeting a focused challenge in a scenic, accessible setting."

Chimps Ahoy: A Compact Sport Climb in Malibu Creek

Chimps Ahoy is a compact yet incisive sport climb tucked within the rugged contours of Malibu Creek State Park. The route immediately grabs your attention with a steep, demanding start that propels you upwards, testing your precision and finger strength before easing onto a broad ledge that offers a brief moment to reset. From here, a small roof challenges your upper-body control and footwork, requiring a focused effort to power through. After overcoming this key obstacle, the route transforms into an enjoyable 5.6 cruise that allows climbers to savor the natural flow of the rock and scenery.

Located on a steep face within the Santa Monica Mountains, Chimps Ahoy demands respect for its initial intensity but rewards with a gratifying sequence of moves. The route’s 80-foot length means it’s approachable for a morning or afternoon session, providing enough time to engage fully with each section without overwhelming endurance. Protection is straightforward – a series of closely spaced bolts leading to two chains secure the climb, creating a safe and reassuring line as you ascend. Expect solid rock quality typical of Malibu Creek, with a textured surface that shuffles easily under smudges of chalk.

Beyond the climb’s physical demands, the setting is a draw on its own. The Stumbling Blocks sector sits within the heart of Malibu Creek State Park, where sun-dappled trails and the distant sounds of wind moving through chaparral shrubs accompany the ascent. Access to the wall is a short approach through dry, rocky terrain with intermittent shade from coastal oaks.

Chimps Ahoy suits climbers ready to face a powerful start and enjoy a playful finish. With a moderate rating of 5.10a, it bridges the gap between confident beginner and intermediate sport climbers looking for a route that blends challenge with flow. The relatively low star rating may suggest it lacks the polished perfection of more famous climbs nearby, but it offers an unpretentious chance to sharpen skills in a scenic, less crowded environment.

When planning your session, be sure to bring well-grippy shoes for the early steep moves and enough quickdraws—six is sufficient for this single-pitch. Timing your climb around midday ensures the wall is warmed, making the holds less slick and the rock more responsive. The small roof section is a worthy crux that demands solid technique, so take your time watching foot placements and prioritizing balance over speed.

This route is ideal for those seeking a concise but well-rounded climb where individual moves matter as much as endurance. Chimps Ahoy invites you to encounter the rock’s natural challenges directly, offering a satisfying progression from the pumpy start to the easier, confident finish poised above Malibu Creek’s natural beauty.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the belay ledge and take extra care when clipping bolts after the roof, as spacing requires confident movement. The approach trail can be slippery after rain, so sturdy footwear is recommended.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach early in the day for cooler temperatures on the rock.

Wear shoes with good edging power for the steep start.

Focus on foot placement when moving through the small roof section.

Carry water as the nearby terrain is dry with limited shade.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating feels true, with a stiff crux at the small roof that demands precise technique and strength. Once past the roof, the climb settles into a comfortable 5.6 grade, making the overall pitch approachable yet engaging. Compared to surrounding routes in Malibu Creek, Chimps Ahoy is a solid choice for those wanting a short but varied challenge.

Gear Requirements

Bolts are the main protection, spaced closely with two chains at the anchor. Six quickdraws will cover the route comfortably.

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Tags

sport climbing
roof section
single pitch
steep start
Malibu Creek
California