"The Chimney Offwidth on Pulpit Rock’s north face is a gritty, wide-crack trad climb that demands polished offwidth skills and solid gear placements. With its single pitch and rugged terrain, it’s a no-frills route that offers a rewarding challenge for climbers comfortable with big cams and chimney climbing."
The Chimney Offwidth route on the north face of Pulpit Rock's imposing massif offers climbers a rugged taste of classic Colorado trad climbing. Spanning just over 37 feet with a single pitch, this climb presents a raw encounter with a wide, demanding crack that cuts a bold path through the rock. The chimney itself is broad and holds the promise of a gritty challenge where wide hands, fists, and offwidth techniques become essential tools in your ascent.
Bleeding with character, this crack requires a thorough brushing before committing to the climb, as loose dirt and debris can dull the experience. Although many climbers find the east face’s routes more straightforward and cleaner, the chimney can serve as a direct route back to your gear stash and the anchor point. That said, the anchor's hardware may be unreliable because the original fixed bolts were reportedly removed, so it’s wise to come prepared with cams, particularly big cams like #5 Camalots and Big Bros, to build your own secure protection.
Located within the rugged confines of Cow Creek Canyon and accessible via McGraw Ranch trailhead near Estes Park, this climb offers not just the physical test but also a landscape marked by wide-open skies and the crisp, often crisp mountain air. The approach is straightforward but requires vigilance navigating local dirt roads such as Devil’s Gulch and Dry Gulch. Once you arrive, the rock’s texture and features demand respect; once on the chimney, the rock stretches wide, daring you to find purchase along its edges and inside its depths.
Ideal for climbers who are familiar with wide cracks and chimney techniques, this route tests patience and finesse over power. Timing your attempt in the warmer months ensures dry rock and safer, more comfortable ascents — wet conditions will quickly sap grip and push risk levels higher. Keep hydration in check; just beyond the trailhead and access roads, the occasional wind whispers through the canyon, a reminder of nature’s presence just beyond the climb.
This climb pairs well with a day exploring the nearby Pulpit Rock area, where other lines beckon and foothills roll under the shifting light of dawn and dusk. After topping out, the descent requires care — opting to downclimb or rappel is possible, but local conditions can complicate the down-route. Plan accordingly, and remember that this route is perfect for those wanting a concise test of crack climbing skills mixed with a touch of exploratory spirit in Colorado’s towering high country.
With anchor bolts reportedly removed, it’s essential to have substantial pro and be confident in building solid anchors. The chimney’s broad crack may conceal loose rock or debris—brushing and cautious movement are key. Approach and descent roads can be rough, so verify vehicle access and park safely.
Brush the crack thoroughly before climbing to clear loose dirt and improve holds.
Use large cams and be prepared to place all your protection as bolts are unreliable or absent.
Approach from McGraw Ranch Trailhead using Devil's Gulch and Dry Gulch Roads; check road access conditions beforehand.
Climb during dry, warm seasons to ensure rock stability and safer friction.
Expect to bring large cams, particularly old-style #5 Camalots and Big Bros, as fixed protection is sparse or potentially removed. Anchor bolts are reportedly missing, so be ready to build your own anchors.
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