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Chimmay Chimnae: A Varied Trad and Sport Climb on Moonlight Rock

Estes Park, Colorado United States
water chimney
hand crack
mixed protection
multi-pitch
exposed belay
rappel descent
Length: 135 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Chimmay Chimnae
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chimmay Chimnae presents a balanced three-pitch route blending trad and sport styles on Moonlight Rock’s south face. Climbers will navigate water-cut chimneys and crack systems, enjoying both bolted security and gear placements amid Colorado’s rugged Estes Park Valley."

Chimmay Chimnae: A Varied Trad and Sport Climb on Moonlight Rock

Chimmay Chimnae offers a balanced adventure for climbers seeking a blend of traditional and sport climbing in the striking landscape of Colorado’s Estes Park Valley. This three-pitch route begins on the south face of Moonlight Rock, drawing you into a dynamic climb that shifts between smooth bolted sections and natural cracks that demand thoughtful gear placements. From the very first move, the climb engages with a watery chimney that challenges your body and mind, the cool rock channel inviting a tactile connection with the earth as you ascend.

Pitch one kicks off with a traverse right into a shallow water runnel chimney, requiring careful positioning as you navigate upward, eventually angling left to reach a belay zone shared with the nearby Dancing in the Moonlight route. The path is straightforward but demands awareness of the slick water-carved grooves etched into the stone. Protection here relies on a single bolt and gear placements up to 1.5 inches, so precise placements keep the safety net tight.

Pitch two shifts focus as you move back into the chimney, ascending past three bolts while gradually gaining the left wall. This pitch introduces a hand-to-fist crack, a welcome route feature that adds texture and opportunity for solid protection—placing gear up to 4 inches in size. This sequence offers a satisfying rhythm: bolted security paired with gear placements that reward good technique and confidence.

The final pitch proceeds up a right-side crack on the summit block, leading to a two-chain anchor perched above the rock’s edge. The topout is straightforward but demands attention, and though the anchor isn’t visible from many angles, it provides a reliable endpoint to the climb. The descent is straightforward with multiple rappel stations—25, 60, and 50 feet—allowing a controlled and safe return to the base.

The surrounding area of Big Thompson Canyon imbues the climb with seasonal character: warm sunbaked rock in the summer, cooler shaded relief from midday heat, and crisp alpine air that sharpens focus. The rock feels solid but weathered, demanding respect especially when wet or after rain. Gear considerations are important here—bring a range of trad protection from small to larger cams to complement the limited bolted sections.

Chimmay Chimnae suits intermediate climbers looking to test route-finding and mixed protection skills in a scenic valley setting. The approach is moderate, with access through Mary’s Bust Area on Moonlight Rock, and GPS reads include comfortable parking nearby. Plan for a half-day outing, emphasizing hydration and layered clothing to adjust to rapidly changing mountain weather. This route doesn’t just ask for physical effort; it invites a quiet dialogue with the rock, flowing between protection styles and subtle terrain changes.

Overall, Chimmay Chimnae stands as an approachable yet rewarding climb that invites you to experience the layered textures of Colorado’s rock. It underscores the value of preparation, steady technique, and the thrill of moving through varied terrain, all set against a landscape where every pitch reveals a new character. Whether you’re stepping into trad gear for the first time or looking to expand your sport-to-trad repertoire, this route delivers ample challenge with a clear and honest line to the summit.

Climber Safety

The route’s chimney sections can retain moisture, becoming slippery especially after rain. Protection on the first pitch is sparse, so climbers must commit confidently while placing gear. The rappel anchors are reliable but verify their condition before descent; bring a 60-meter rope for safe retreat.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches3
Length135 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid heat on the south-facing wall.

Bring a full rack with a focus on cams sized 1.5 to 4 inches.

Check weather carefully; the route can become slick and hazardous when wet.

Hydrate thoroughly—Big Thompson Canyon sun can intensify exposure.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 PG13 rating matches the route’s moderate technical difficulty paired with some runout sections. The grade feels consistent, with no surprising crux moves but a steady need for good footwork and protection judgment. Compared to other moderate climbs in Estes Park, it offers a blend of sport and trad that’s slightly more committing than a fully bolted route, making it a solid stepping stone for climbers transitioning to multi-pitch trad.

Gear Requirements

Protection is a hybrid of bolts and traditional gear. Pitch one features one bolt and requires cams up to 1.5 inches. Pitch two climbs past three bolts, offering placements for gear up to 4 inches, especially in the hand-to-fist crack. The final pitch demands gear placements up to 3 inches, with accessible belays and rappel anchors for safe descent.

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Tags

water chimney
hand crack
mixed protection
multi-pitch
exposed belay
rappel descent