HomeClimbingChim Chimney

Chim Chimney at Horseshoe Slabs

Mammoth Lakes, California United States
chimney
trad
crack climb
single pitch
beginner friendly
Sierra granite
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chim Chimney
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Explore Chim Chimney, a focused trad climb at Horseshoe Slabs that challenges climbers with its flaring chimney and deep back crack. This short but technical route stands out for its unique style and offers practical protection options amid the Sierra’s granite walls."

Chim Chimney at Horseshoe Slabs

Chim Chimney offers a distinctive crack climb that stands apart from the typical face and slab routes common in the Horseshoe Lake Area. This one-pitch, 40-foot trad climb invites you to engage directly with its outward-flaring chimney, a narrow channel where your body interacts uniquely with the rock. From the base, the chimney dares you to slide upward, hugging the natural contours where the rock walls push you back as much as they support your ascent.

The route’s defining feature is the back crack inside the chimney, a line that invites cam placements ranging from smaller stoppers (.3 inch) to mid-sized cams up to 3 inches, though expect to encounter some residual dirt and moisture, especially during the melt season early summer. On the day of record, June 4, 2018, snowmelt added a slick challenge to the climb, making it a test of both technique and patience. This route’s style diverges from the neighboring cracks and face climbs, offering an intense, chimney-specific movement that feels more physical and intimate.

Set above a ledge crowned by a large tree, the chimney climb ends on a natural platform, granting a moment to rest and take in the surrounding granitic walls and forested slopes. This ledge also doubles as an anchor point for top roping, providing flexibility for climbers who prefer an easier descent or want to work the moves safely.

Planning your ascent means gearing up with a versatile rack that emphasizes cams within the 0.3 to 3-inch range, as protection opportunities hinge on placements deep inside the crack rather than surface stances. The climb’s history of residual dampness means sturdy shoes with excellent grip and awareness of weather conditions are critical. Early summer can bring both moisture and variable temps, so layering for warmth and carrying enough water will serve you well.

Accessing Chim Chimney is straightforward within the Horseshoe Slabs zone—a climbing locale perched on the Sierra Eastside near Mammoth Lakes, California. The area links forest edges with expansive granite faces, exhibiting a blend of slab and crack climbing that caters to a spectrum of climbers. The route's exposure is moderate, with a vertical emphasis that challenges technique without overwhelming risk, making it a solid choice for intermediate trad climbers looking to expand their repertoire.

Whether you’re topping out the chimney or belaying from the ledge below, this climb offers an engaging experience that balances natural beauty with technical movement. The route’s character highlights the subtle complexities of chimney climbing elevation, demanding deliberate placement, body positioning, and trust in your gear. Prepare for a climb inviting focus and respect for the rock’s persistent embrace—Chim Chimney might be short, but it leaves a lasting impression.

Climber Safety

The chimney’s back crack can hold wet debris and dirt, especially after snowmelt, which may reduce friction. Exercise caution when placing gear in unclear placements, and double-check anchors formed on the ledge’s large tree for security.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Approach the climb with shoes that offer solid grip for damp, slick rock surfaces.

Early summer climbs may encounter wet patches from snowmelt—check conditions ahead.

Scout the top ledge tree as a reliable anchor for top-roping or lowering off.

Keep a versatile rack, focusing on cams to fit tight crack placements over surface nuts.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:At 5.8, Chim Chimney is approachable for intermediate climbers but carries the distinct physical challenge of chimney movement, which can feel pumpy relative to face or slab routes nearby. The rating is solid with no soft grades; the key is managing placements and body positioning through the flare.

Gear Requirements

Bring a set of cams ranging from 0.3 to 3 inches to protect placements deep inside the chimney's back crack. Consider top roping from the large tree on the ledge above for added safety or coaching.

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Tags

chimney
trad
crack climb
single pitch
beginner friendly
Sierra granite