"Bypasses the overgrown final pitches of The Calling with two sustained pitches of solid 5.11+ crack and slab climbing. A bold, compact variation that tests technique and commitment high above Squamish’s lush valleys."
Chilkoot Pass cuts a sharp line through Squamish’s North Walls, offering climbers a compact but intense two-pitch alternative to the closing sections of The Calling. Where the original route dodges into overgrown, slow-moving terrain, this variation keeps you locked in a focused battle on sustained 5.11+ cracks and technical slabs that demand both precision and stamina. The air is charged here, with the vertical faces above Squamish’s green slopes daring you onward. The rock has a rough, ancient character — a mixture of slabby friction and thin fissures giving each move a deliberate urgency.
Starting near the crux of The Calling’s fourth pitch, the variation veers sharply right onto a small ledge that feels like stepping off a well-worn path into a more exposed and active challenge. The first pitch begins with straightforward moves to clip a bolt, then transitions quickly into a delicate dance over a hanging slab. The slab directs you toward a slabby crack and culminates in a narrow, thin-hands crack that tightens, demanding controlled technique and steady footwork. The final move on this pitch pulls you into a right-facing corner with just enough room to set up your gear and clip the anchor.
Pitch two turns the challenge up a notch, confronting two small, imposing roofs just above the anchor. These roofs are the unmistakable gatekeepers of the route, requiring bold hand jams and finger locks that test both strength and finesse. The climbing here is decisive and physical, offset by occasional rests on jugs tucked under small overhangs. A well-placed bolt near the alcove helps reduce rope drag, a thoughtful touch given the complexity of the moves. This pitch finishes riding a finger-to-hand crack up into a right-facing corner and a ledge, with one more quick roof battle just before the top.
The granite here is classic Squamish — rough, offering excellent friction but demanding respect on some of its delicate edges and slab sections. Protection is straightforward with a standard Squamish rack; doubles to 2 inches and a rare 3-inch cam can cover the gear needed to safely run the route. Anchor setups are clean but require some attention to detail, particularly on the second pitch where a tree anchor awaits.
Accessing Chilkoot Pass means a short approach from the main trail leading to The Chief. Expect rugged terrain with an estimated 10 to 15-minute hike from the parking lot, winding through forested patches that open up to reveals of the vast expanse of Howe Sound below. The wall itself faces southwest, soaking up afternoon sun—ideal for climbing when the morning chill lingers but beware of overheating in the peak summer months.
Plan your climb with hydration and footwear in mind, as the slab sections demand sticky shoes that can handle the slickened granite, especially if morning dew hasn’t fully burned off. Early or late season climbs call for an eye on weather forecasts since wet rock can turn those slabs treacherous and the roofs slick.
Chilkoot Pass is well suited for experienced trad climbers who seek a sustained challenge beyond the usual offerings at The Chief. It’s short but compact with varied climbing that keeps you fully engaged, making it a worthy alternative for anyone looking to avoid the overgrowth and pedestrian scrambling of the standard finish. With breathtaking views and technical moves wrapped into two pitches, this route nails the balance between serious sport and the rugged Soul of Squamish.
Slabby sections can become hazardous when wet or covered in morning dew; take extra care footing and consider postponing the climb under wet conditions. The small roofs on pitch two require secure hand jams—fall potential here can be serious, so place protection thoughtfully.
Start early to avoid crowding and to catch cooler slab conditions on the southwest-facing wall.
Sticky climbing shoes are essential for slab sections, especially if rock is damp.
Keep gear organized for quick transitions at the anchor; rope drag can be an issue on pitch two.
Check weather forecasts closely; wet rock greatly increases risk on slabs and roofs.
Standard Squamish rack needed with doubles to 2 inches and possibly one 3-inch cam for larger placements.
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