"Chickenhead is a classic three-pitch trad route on The Headstone’s west face offering a balanced mix of crack and face climbing. With solid protection and a manageable approach, it serves as a perfect introduction to multi-pitch adventure in Colorado’s iconic South Platte area."
Starting on the rugged west face of The Headstone in Colorado, Chickenhead offers a grounded introduction to multi-pitch trad climbing with an honest dose of challenge and character. Clocking in at three pitches, this route demands steady footwork and careful gear placements as it climbs the heart of a left-facing corner system before navigating an exposed face section crowned by a tricky, loose block—the crux that tests your judgment and confidence. The climb begins just to the right of Topaz, positioning you in a space where the rock’s varied features shape the line upward. The first pitch ascends the distinct corner, offering natural protection opportunities and enough holds to maintain momentum without rushing.
As you reach the belay ledge atop the corner, step off to the left and engage with the steeper face section where the risk of loose rock requires patience and precise movement. This shift from crack-focused climbing to face climbing breaks the rhythm and demands awareness, reinforcing the route's straightforward yet dynamic nature. The final pitch is short but not trivial, traversing right of a chimney feature and finishing where the rock eases off, providing a satisfying end to the climb.
The Headstone’s west face exposes climbers to the raw environmental embrace of the South Platte area—a blend of pine-scented air, clear mountain light, and sweeping valley views that keep you connected to the surroundings as you ascend. The protection is standard trad gear, with fixed anchors securing each belay, simplifying rope management and increasing safety margin on switches. While the route isn’t lengthy, the varied terrain and loose rock sections mean that deliberate pacing and route-finding are essential to success.
Approach access is smooth, with well-maintained trails guiding you from the trailhead to the base in about an hour, keeping the commitment manageable. This route suits climbers looking to build confidence on longer trad routes, combining moderate difficulty with exposed moves that sharpen technique while immersing you in the Colorado mountain experience. Ideal times for the climb favor late spring through early fall when the sun hits the west face, warming the rock and melting early morning moisture.
Chickenhead’s candid character and solid protection offer a rewarding outing for trad climbers eager for a purposeful adventure close to Denver’s climbing hubs. With solid anchors, clear beta, and scenery that pulls the eye beyond the wall, this climb blends approachability and engagement in a way that both newcomers and veterans will appreciate.
The large loose block on pitch two demands extra vigilance—avoid placing weight or gear on it and test each hold before trusting it. Wearing a helmet is essential here to mitigate possible rockfall. The approach trail is well-maintained but watch for slick spots following rain.
Approach takes roughly 60 minutes on well-defined trails—start early to avoid afternoon heat.
Watch for a large loose block on the second pitch—test holds carefully before trusting them.
Bring a helmet to protect against potential rockfall, especially near the crux.
Climb during late spring to early fall for stable rock and the best lighting on the west face.
Carry a standard trad rack including cams and nuts to protect the corner pitches. Fixed anchors simplify belays, but exercise caution when placing gear near the loose block on pitch two.
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