Chicken Pie offers climbers a focused journey through a varied crack system high on technical demand and natural beauty. Situated in the Lower Merced River Canyon of Yosemite Valley, this two-pitch trad route stretches approximately 200 feet and comes alive with a series of finger locks, hand jams, and knob tie-offs that challenge even seasoned crack enthusiasts. It’s often regarded as the area’s warm-up climb, though its steep angle and sustained 5.9 rating suggest otherwise—many climbers propose it warrants a 5.10a, given its physicality and the precision crack climbing required.

The climb’s first pitch winds through tight fingers stretching to generous fists, demanding smooth transitions and confidence in gear placements. The natural jamming sequence is varied, keeping the climber engaged with the rock as the crack narrows and widens, testing technique over its roughly 100-foot length. Protection calls for a solid rack: a single set of cams ranging from small to 3.5 inches, with extra pieces in the 1.25 to 1.75-inch range to secure tricky corner sections.

After the first pitch, the second pitch ventures right and ascends a series of large, worn knobs. These features provide unique holds and secure tie-off points but require careful movement to avoid rope drag. The protection here includes strategic slings for knobs and a green Alien for the crux moves exiting the slab near the anchor. The natural anchor finishes the route safely at a bolted chain station.

Surrounding the climb, the Lower Merced River Canyon stakes its claim as a quiet pocket of Yosemite’s grandeur. The granite walls reach down toward the river, where water rushes with purpose, echoing in harmony with the wind through pine branches. The exposed position of the climb means you often catch the warmth of the sun on cooler days, but the shade from nearby walls offers welcome relief in hotter months.

Getting to Chicken Pie involves a manageable approach along well-maintained trails within Yosemite National Park. The trailhead is accessible year-round, though spring runoff can impact river crossings and approach conditions. Climbers should plan for a moderate hike with some elevation gain, carrying adequate hydration and ensuring that their rack accounts for the demanding crack climbing.

Whether you’re working on refining your crack technique or seeking a route that blends compelling movement with reliable protection, Chicken Pie is a fine choice. It balances the thrill of precise jamming with the satisfaction of topping out in a celebrated corner of Yosemite climbing history. Expect to find steady traffic of climbers sharpening their skills here, a testament to the route’s respected place in the valley’s climbing lineup.