"Chicken Fart carves out a less slick, more varied ascent just right of Chicken Heart, blending stemming, crack, and face climbing into a concise 40-foot trad climb. It invites climbers seeking a technical challenge with minimal fixed protection and rich movement variety."
Chicken Fart offers a refreshing alternative to the well-known Chicken Heart route, delivering a climb that combines technical face moves, stemming, and crack climbing over a compact 40-foot challenge. Situated on the Main Wall within Mission Gorge, this line stands out for its slightly less slick features, rewarding climbers looking for a dynamic trad experience with a handy bolt starter and a crack finish that calls for precise gear placements.
From the moment your hands reach the V-notch 15 feet right of Chicken Heart’s beginning holds, the route demands ease of movement and careful footwork. Although it starts straightforward, the protection is sparse and runout at the outset, requiring confidence and a measured approach to the bolt anchor. The crux lies in the traverse left and upwards, where balance and body tension come into play amidst stemming sections and a deft use of friction on face holds.
Climbers will appreciate the shift to traditional gear after clipping the bolt, as the route transitions into a crack system that comfortably takes cams from half-inch to two inches. The crack's moderate size encourages thoughtful placements and sharp focus, ideal for trad enthusiasts honing their gear skills on varied terrain.
The location in South San Diego County, just within reach of the city, offers a climb that mixes accessibility with a true sense of outdoor adventure. The wall’s sun-facing aspect rewards early morning ascents when the rock is cool, while the steady breeze from the nearby gorge carries the heat away in warmer months.
Planning your ascent, bring a rack that prioritizes small to medium cams along with some quickdraws for the bolt section, and pay attention to footwear with sticky rubber to navigate the face and stemming moves efficiently. Hydration is crucial as shade is limited, so pack water accordingly. Approaching via the Main Wall trails involves a short but sometimes rocky jaunt—solid shoes and steady footing will make your approach smooth.
Chicken Fart’s mix of styles and the satisfying finish up to Chicken Heart’s anchors make it a solid pick for anyone looking to stretch their trad skills in a brief but engaging climb. Whether easing into trad climbing or sharpening technique on steep face moves, this route offers a compact taste of San Diego’s diverse climbing terrain without demanding a full-day commitment.
The initial section is runout with limited protection until the bolt, so pace yourself and be prepared for exposure. Careful placement and protection in the crack near the top are essential as falling here can be serious due to fewer natural ledges.
Begin early to beat the sun and keep the rock cool.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber to handle face climbing and stemming.
Carry a light trad rack focusing on cams from 0.5" to 2" plus quickdraws for the bolt.
Watch your foot placements on the approach trail; it can get loose and uneven.
The start offers one bolt replaced in 2008 by ASCA but remains runout, so bring small cams to supplement protection early on. Finish with cams ranging from 0.5 to 2 inches for safe placements in the ending crack section.
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