"Chicken Belly delivers a brisk but demanding single-pitch sport climb on the rugged Warm Out Wall in Owens River Gorge. Climbers will find a tricky start and shifting rock quality that tests attention and technique amidst quiet desert surroundings."
Chicken Belly offers climbers a compact but intense sport route set against the stark, rugged backdrop of the Owens River Gorge near Bishop, California. This single-pitch climb demands a balance of precision and composure from the very first move, which feels slightly awkward as you commit to the initial bolt. The rock quality shifts notably midway through the route; after the third bolt, the stone becomes noticeably less reliable, requiring extra focus on foot placement and gear scouting. Despite this, the route provides a rewarding challenge that’s equal parts physical and mental, with just seven bolts protecting roughly 70 feet of vertical face.
Tucked into the Warm Out Wall sector, Chicken Belly sits in an environment where the dry desert air stings lightly with summer warmth and the high desert winds cut just enough to keep your skin cool. The cliff faces north, which means in spring and fall, the wall enjoys refreshing shade during the afternoon, making it an inviting option when temperatures soar. The approach to Warm Out Wall is straightforward but crosses uneven terrain with loose scree and desert brush, so careful footing is essential. Plan for a 10-15 minute walk from the main trailhead; GPS coordinates for Warm Out Wall anchor at latitude 37.52586 and longitude -118.57401.
Gear-wise, Chicken Belly demands a steady reliance on its seven bolts, making a light sport climbing rack sufficient. Be prepared for bolts spaced modestly but set in rock that requires you to evaluate whether to trust the fixed protection or back it up with additional gear, especially between the third and fifth bolts where the rock chips more easily. Climbing shoes with sharp edging capabilities and a confident lock-off are key as several sections require precise holds on less-than-perfect stone.
Owens River Gorge itself is a cornerstone of the California climbing scene, offering climbs that range from smooth face routes to rugged cracks, often with expansive views of the eastern Sierra Nevadas. The area remains relatively low-key compared to other iconic California crags but offers rawness and solitude rarely found in busier spots.
Plan your ascent by targeting early morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday heat and enjoy the wall’s cooler shade. There’s a modest risk of loose rock, particularly in the middle section of the route, so helmets are a must. Hydrate well beforehand—the desert environment here can sap energy faster than you might expect. Descending Chicken Belly is a straightforward single rappel down the bolted anchors, but riders should be cautious of rockfall hazards while setting up.
In summary, Chicken Belly at Warm Out Wall is the kind of route that rewards focus over flash, inviting climbers to engage with its imperfections and hidden challenges. Its blend of technical moves and shifting rock quality makes it well-suited for those looking to sharpen their sport climbing skills in an uncompromising natural setting just outside Bishop.
Exercise caution in the middle section where rock quality declines. Loose holds increase risk of unexpected falls or rockfall. Always wear a helmet and double-check gear placements before committing to clipping.
Wear climbing shoes with precise edging for better purchase on weaker holds.
Carry a helmet due to loose rock potential, especially mid-route.
Approach in early morning or late afternoon to avoid harsh sun exposure.
Hydrate well before the climb—desert air dehydrates quickly.
The route is protected by 7 bolts, spaced to cover most of the climb but with a section of questionable rock between bolts 3 and 5 that calls for cautious clipping and possibly backing up with small gear if you choose to be extra conservative.
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