Adventure Collective

Cherry at Turtle Rocks: A Classic Trad Climb in Buena Vista

Buena Vista, Colorado USA
chimney start
finger crack
single pitch
trad gear
bolt anchors removed
Colorado climbing
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cherry
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cherry delivers a straightforward yet satisfying trad climb on Turtle Rocks’ durable granite. Featuring a 5.5-5.6 chimney start and a finger crack finish, this brief route offers a hands-on challenge for intermediate trad climbers seeking technical movement in a stunning Colorado setting."

Cherry at Turtle Rocks: A Classic Trad Climb in Buena Vista

Cherry offers a concise but rewarding trad climbing experience set against the rugged backdrop of Turtle Rocks near Buena Vista, Colorado. This single-pitch route, roughly 40 feet in length, begins with a straightforward chimney that leans between 5.5 and 5.6 difficulty, perfect for climbers looking to warm up or test their technique in natural features. The chimney frames the ascent like a narrow corridor, inviting you to engage your body and senses as you move upward. Beyond the chimney lies a chockstone—anchoring the climb’s character and demanding careful negotiation before shifting your path rightward onto a clean crack. This final section challenges you with sustained moves requiring finger-sized cams, making it a hands-on route where gear placement and body positioning are critical. The climb concludes at a two-bolt anchor, a vestige of its old bolted history, although those bolts were removed in 2014, restoring the route to pure trad climbing.

Approaching Cherry is a straightforward affair, following well-marked paths through Turtle Rocks’ distinctive granite outcrops. The area’s elevation, just shy of 7,200 feet, gifts climbers with fresh mountain air and expansive views of the Colorado Rockies. The rock itself is solid, though the absence of bolts means placing protection efficiently is essential—finger-sized cams come into their own here. Keep in mind the chimney section offers some rest and stability before the sharper moves at the top, making it an accessible yet engaging climb for intermediate climbers.

Seasonally, spring through fall presents the best window, when conditions are dry and temperatures moderate. Avoid wet or snowy days, as the chimney can become slippery and protection more challenging to place. The approach trail is a dry, rocky scramble that rewards early starts, allowing climbers to beat afternoon heat and potential afternoon thunderstorms common in this region.

Whether you're visiting Turtle Rocks for a day of climbing or passing through Buena Vista, Cherry provides a satisfying trad experience that balances natural movement with practical gear strategy. Suitable for those stepping from sport to trad or seasoned climbers seeking a quick, technical pitch, it’s a route that demands attention without overwhelming complexity. Pack a rack focused on finger to hand-sized cams, sturdy shoes with solid edging ability, and plenty of water—this climb will both sharpen your skills and offer a crisp taste of Colorado’s climbing scene.

Climber Safety

With bolts removed, protection depends entirely on natural placements—pay close attention to secure gear placement especially above the chimney past the chockstone. Approach conditions can be slick after rain, so ensure dry weather to maintain safe footing on the chimney.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in summer.

Use sticky-soled climbing shoes with good edging for the crack section.

Bring a finger to hand-sized cam rack; small cams are crucial for the top moves.

Check weather forecasts—wet granite can make chimney moves slippery and hazardous.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Cherry falls comfortably within the intermediate range but demands a solid trad skillset. The chimney start feels mellow but transitions to a more technical crack that requires precise gear placement and finger strength. Compared to other Turtle Rocks routes, it offers a soft grade with a crux that punctuates the top section, making it satisfying without overstretching abilities.

Gear Requirements

Single rack with emphasis on finger-sized cams toward the upper crack section. Bolts were removed in 2014, so traditional protection placement is necessary throughout.

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Tags

chimney start
finger crack
single pitch
trad gear
bolt anchors removed
Colorado climbing