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Cheap Shot at Lover's Leap: A Raw Trad Challenge

South Lake Tahoe, California United States
hand crack
finger crack
steep bulge
broken rock
morning shade
single pitch
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cheap Shot
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cheap Shot is a sharp, single-pitch trad climb at Lover’s Leap that offers a gritty test on broken cracks and a steep bulge. It’s ideal for climbers looking to sharpen trad skills amid rugged granite and sweeping Sierra views."

Cheap Shot at Lover's Leap: A Raw Trad Challenge

Cheap Shot stands as a gritty, uncompromising climb on the Main Wall of Lover’s Leap, accessible from the well-traveled Highway 50 corridor near Lake Tahoe, California. This single-pitch trad route demands focused effort across a fractured network of cracks that test both your technique and mental grit. From the ground up, the climb presents a series of broken hand and finger cracks coated in a layer of trail dust and rock debris, requiring deliberate cleaning and precise placements to maintain momentum. The initial section climbs into a shallow corner system, inviting climbers to lean into stemming moves and friction holds that shift rhythmically as the rock contours push back against each move. Midway, the route culminates in a steep bulge where perfect hand jams and bold stemming come together, challenging climbers to commit and trust their gear.

This climb isn’t about seamless flow or polished stone—it’s about embracing the raw nature of trad climbing with all its demands for persistence and solid route-finding. The protection relies heavily on cams ranging from small fingers (.4") up to mid-sized pieces (2"), making a rack focused on small to medium cams essential. Expect to place gear in less-than-pristine cracks, testing your ability to evaluate placements quickly in a setting where the rock often shifts underfoot and hand.

Lover's Leap itself is known for its granite slabs and crack systems, framed by sweeping views of the Sierra Nevada foothills and the shimmering expanse of Lake Tahoe below. The Main Wall's orientation ensures morning shade and warms gradually through the day, making early starts ideal in warmer months to avoid overheating and maintain grip quality. Access is straightforward, with a well-defined trail leading to the base of the route, though it requires careful attention to avoid slippery talus and loose rock fields.

For climbers eager to sharpen their crack skills or those looking for a solid introduction to 5.10 trad in the Tahoe area, Cheap Shot offers a compact, full-bodied challenge. It’s a climb that rewards careful gear selection, steady climbing, and the willingness to embrace imperfect rock conditions. Prepare to hydrate well, wear shoes that handle granite efficiently, and carry a brush or two to clear holds. Timing your ascent for calmer weather days is also critical; the often exposed approach can leave you open to sharp winds coming off the lake.

Whether you're ticking off laps in the zone or pushing your limits on classic trad lines, Cheap Shot delivers a no-frills experience that connects you directly to the granite, the crack, and the defining effort of traditional climbing at Lover’s Leap.

Climber Safety

The climb’s broken cracks and loose rock patches can create tenuous gear placements—always double-check cams for stability. The route's proximity to talus fields means rockfall is a real hazard, so helmets are a must, and caution is advised when cleaning anchors.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to take advantage of morning shade and cooler temps.

Inspect and clean cracks before placing gear to avoid loose protection.

Wear sticky granite shoes for secure footing on fractured rock.

Carry water and be prepared for brisk winds near the lake’s edge.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Cheap Shot feels firm but fair with its key challenge concentrated around the steep bulge near the top. The rating is consistent with typical Tahoe granite cracks, where solid hand jams can make or break the effort. Compared to nearby routes on the Main Wall, it’s approachable for those honing trad skills but still demands respect for its tricky gear and less-than-pristine rock.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full rack of cams from .4" to 2" to confidently protect the cracked terrain. Expect to place gear in broken and sometimes dirty cracks, so a brush for cleaning holds and a sharp eye for secure placements are essential.

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Tags

hand crack
finger crack
steep bulge
broken rock
morning shade
single pitch