"Chasing Rainbows showcases a steep basalt dike threading under Highway 99 in Squamish’s Malamute sector. This short but intense trad climb blends big holds with a techy move and decreasing protection near the top, perfect for climbers craving focused precision in a striking setting."
Chasing Rainbows offers a unique encounter with Squamish’s sculpted granite, following a striking basalt dike that boldly threads beneath Highway 99, linking all the way to the towering Black Dike on the Chief. This single-pitch trad route demands more than just strength; it calls for steady focus as you transition from granite slab to the sharp, steep line of basalt that defines the climb. The dike’s sheer face, punctuated by generous holds, tempts you with its palpable texture, but don’t be fooled—amidst the big holds lies a particularly technical move that tests precise footwork and careful placement.
Your gear rack should be prepared for subtle shifts in protection opportunities as you ascend. Starting on granite, you’ll find solid placements, but as the route steepens on the dike, smaller cams like 0.5 and 0.75 become indispensable. Protection space decreases near the top, increasing the seriousness of the final moves. The rock changes character here, and while a fall is unlikely if you stay attentive, the consequences would be significant. The climb’s length, while brief, is packed with engaging detail in both movement and gear management.
Approaching the route requires a short but varied hike through bearing forest trails leading into the Malamute area. Expect easy navigation to the base, with coordinates placing you just south of Highway 99, nestled amid classic Squamish granite surroundings. After topping out, a brief traverse left brings you to established anchors on a smooth slab, offering a safe spot to decompress and take in views of the nearby peaks and bustling valley below.
Chasing Rainbows is perfect for climbers looking to challenge themselves on a less-traveled trad route that mixes bold lines with manageable protection. While the climb doesn’t boast length, the character and technical variety provide a rewarding punch for anyone eager to engage Squamish’s diverse rock personality. Given the route’s exposure and the decreasing gear placements near the top, climbers should be comfortable with runout sections and confident in their gear judgment.
Plan your climb during dry periods; the basalt dike can hold moisture longer than surrounding granite, making grip variable after rain. Early morning starts are preferable to avoid sun exposure on the steeper face, while also benefiting from cooler, more stable conditions. Footwear with sticky rubber will help negotiate the technical moves and tricky placements. Be ready for some tight, deliberate moves that require calm, controlled breathing.
Ultimately, Chasing Rainbows is a brief but bold encounter with one of Squamish’s geological quirks. It weaves adventure and practicality into a single pitch where natural features command respect and attentiveness. Prepare well, approach smart, and savor a climb that rewards focus and careful movement amid the iconic coastal wilderness of British Columbia.
Protection thins out near the upper section of the dike; falls here could be significant. Watch for loose rock during the granite-to-dike transition and always double-check anchors after topping out.
Approach via the Malamute trailhead; expect well-marked but variable terrain.
Start early to avoid heat on the steep dike, especially in summer.
Check for damp rock after rain; the basalt holds moisture longer.
Focus on precise gear placements near the top to manage runout risk.
Bring a single rack up to #3 Camelot with emphasis on 0.5 and 0.75 cams for the basalt dike. Slings are recommended for runners and extending placements.
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