"Changing Phases challenges climbers with its steep, pocket-rich face on a water-striped wall in Lassen National Park. This trad alpine climb offers precise moves, careful gear placements, and a rewarding alpine setting for those prepared to engage the mountain’s unique character."
Changing Phases demands attention from climbers ready to engage with a steep, pocket-laden wall that rises sharply against the backdrop of Lassen National Park’s rugged northeast California landscape. This single-pitch trad and alpine route, stretching 55 feet, challenges you with a face streaked by water channels that both define its character and test your steady hand on sparse protection. Here, carefully placed tricams wedge into tight pockets, and two bolts provide key points of safety amid the mostly natural gear placements.
The climb’s flow follows a natural line where knobs and pockets lead upward, requiring precise footwork and finger strength. This route isn’t for the faint-hearted or those expecting abundant protection but rewards those who approach with respect and tactical patience. The rock’s texture is firm but worn in places by water-run streaks that shimmer with moisture after snowmelt and rains, making timing crucial for dry conditions.
Lassen’s alpine environment pierces the usual forested views with crisp mountain air and the distant call of birds sweeping overhead. The climb occupies a sun-facing aspect, meaning morning approaches bring chill relief while midday sun can warm the slab to grip-enhancing temperatures. The solitude around The Belly Button area offers climbers a quiet contrast to more trafficked locations, making each move feel like a personal conversation with the mountain.
Practical preparation is essential. Ensure your tricams fit the varied pocket sizes you’ll encounter and don’t rely on fixed hardware alone—those two bolts are critical but limited. Due to the lack of anchors directly atop the line, plan to belay your partner from the back side of the terrace after the climb, then rappel down carefully. This descent demands focus; the terrain is exposed and requires respect for the alpine setting and its seasonal shifts.
Local tips emphasize timing your climb during the late spring to early fall months when snowmelt recedes and water streaks dry, reducing slipperiness. Lightweight alpine boots with sticky rubber and a precise rack packed for small gear will serve best. Hydrate adequately at the trailhead and move steadily; the approach is manageable but crossing rocky alpine terrain calls for attention and sure footing.
This climb offers a balanced challenge—a touch of wildness thrown in with technical moves and strategic gear placements. It’s a rewarding objective for those seeking a mix of alpine adventure and focused face climbing, where every pocket found propels you higher into the crisp Lassen air and a perspective unique to northeast California’s volcanic terrain.
Protection is limited and anchors are set back from the line, requiring a rappel from the terrace above. Be cautious of water-worn holds that may reduce friction, especially after rain or snowmelt. Approach with secure footing; alpine terrain can be uneven and slippery.
Climb during late spring to early fall when water streaks dry for better friction.
Bring a precise, small gear rack including tricams for secure placements.
Start early to take advantage of cooler morning temps and avoid midday heat.
Hydrate well at the trailhead; alpine terrain demands steady energy and focus.
Bring a rack focused on small gear, especially tricams that fit pockets tightly. Two bolts are available but sparse; rely mostly on natural protection. Plan for a rappel from an anchor on the first terrace, not directly atop the climb.
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