"This short but demanding trad climb in Joshua Tree National Park challenges fingers and nerves alike with a thin crack just beside a right-facing chimney. Its crux near the top requires precise gear placements and steady focus, making it a rewarding climb for seasoned crack enthusiasts."
Set within the raw granite expanses of Joshua Tree National Park's Sheep Pass Area, this single-pitch trad climb draws adventurers into a focused test of skill and nerve. Sitting just right of a prominent right-facing chimney, the thin crack demands precise hand and finger jams, teasing climbers with a delicate balance of technique and commitment. Approaching the climb, the desert’s heat-softened rock radiates warmth underfoot, while a sparse scattering of desert flora strains toward the sun. The crack ascends roughly 40 feet, offering a compact but intense experience, with a crux near the top where the route tightens and the protection feels less certain—here, the climb edges into the realm of PG13 seriousness.
Protection relies on small cams and narrow wires, the placement sites tight but adequate for those carrying TCUs and mini-cams. Anchoring requires two solid pieces: a red and a gold Camalot, which serve as the final security on this bold line. The rock’s texture is typical of Joshua Tree—abrasive yet reliable, with enough features to find purchase but no easy shortcuts. Climbers moving through this crack must stay mentally sharp, as the exposure and the thin nature of the crack introduce a subtle but palpable tension.
Access to this route follows a moderate approach through the wider Hall of Horrors sector, where time spent ascending rocky trails rewards with expansive views of desert valleys and mountain ridges. The approach trail is well-marked but rocky; hiking shoes with good traction make for safer footing. Timing your climb for the cooler morning or late afternoon hours is wise, as midday sun can quickly sap energy and cloud the mental focus needed here.
Whether you’re sharpening your crack climbing skills or seeking a short adventure that demands respect, this route’s combination of technical demands and desert atmosphere make it a compelling stop. Be prepared with a compact rack tuned to small placements, and anticipate the psychological push that comes with the upper crux’s sparse holds and thin protection. This climb doesn’t overwhelm with length, but it delivers a focused challenge that lingers in memory, framed by Joshua Tree’s stark beauty and endless sky.
The crux near the top requires focused attention on gear placements as protection zones narrow, increasing risk in the event of a fall. Ensure your small cams and wires are seated securely, and avoid climbing when the rock is wet or damp to prevent slips.
Start early or late to avoid harsh midday desert heat.
Use climbing shoes with sticky rubber for sharp crack jamming.
Check protection carefully near the crux—small gear needs precise placement.
Approach via the well-marked Hall of Horrors trail; sturdy hiking shoes help on the rocky terrain.
Bring a selection of small cams, including TCUs and small wires, for secure placements throughout the route. A red and gold Camalot are essential for building a reliable anchor atop this climb.
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