"Chainsaw Willie delivers a sharp, demanding single pitch on Middle Spire that tests your trad skills with a serious early crux and sparse protection. This granite route rewards boldness with a technical slab climb framed by Tahoe’s rugged high country."
Chainsaw Willie stakes its claim as a compelling test on the Middle Spire, inviting climbers to confront a gritty 70-foot pitch marked by a pronounced early crux and razor-edge protection. From the moment you step off the ground, the route demands respect—the first moves push you leftward around a small crescent-shaped overhang that juts out like a stubborn guardpost. This initial traverse sets the tone: the protection here is scarce, and the 'R' warning in the rating speaks to the resume of risk that climbers carry. Past this demanding start, the climbing opens up into an easier cruise on slabs and positive bumps typical of Phantom Spires rock—and yet the route never loses its character. The stone is firm, textured, and occasionally bumpy, providing solid feet and handholds that feel just right against the fingers. Expect a compact, concentrated experience where technical finesse blends with mental grit.
Set against the rugged backdrop of the Lake Tahoe region, Chainsaw Willie offers more than just a climb—it presents a moment suspended in wild beauty and raw challenge. The granite here is sun-baked and sharp, reverberating the energy of the high Sierra environment. Climbers will find themselves keenly aware of the exposure as the pitch arcs skyward, a silent wild companion that tests focus and resolve.
Protection is the route’s most significant factor. Gear placements are limited and need to be chosen carefully. The lack of fixed anchors means you’ll lean heavily on traditional gear skills, with a few possible gear anchors scattered at the top. A practical tip: you can utilize Cockabooty’s fixed anchor just to the right for rappelling, which lies in wait as a reliable option for descent. This adds a layer of strategic planning, ensuring your exit is clean and efficient after the challenge is over.
Approach to Middle Spire is straightforward, following well-marked paths from the Highway 50 Corridor near Lake Tahoe. The climb sits within a high-elevation zone where dry air meets intense sunlight, so early starts and plenty of hydration are recommended. Shoes with sticky rubber and solid edging ability will help negotiate the slab sections with confidence.
Chainsaw Willie balances a spirited dose of risk with engaging terrain, serving as a perfect proving ground for climbers comfortable with limited protection and ready to embrace a bold single-pitch test. Its blend of technical moves, mental demands, and exposed scenery embodies what makes trad climbing in the Sierra Nevada both challenging and rewarding.
Sparse protection near the crux means falls could be serious—avoid rushing protection placements and double-check gear. The rock is generally solid but requires controlled movement, especially under the overhanging traverse. Descend only via rappel using the nearby fixed anchor to ensure safety.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and fading light on the slab.
Bring a full trad rack with smaller cams for tricky gear placements on the initial traverse.
Hydrate well before the climb—exposure and elevation can lead to quick dehydration.
Use approach shoes with solid traction for the hike-in along loose talus to Middle Spire.
Limited protection options define this climb; gear placements are sparse and require careful judgment. No fixed anchors exist on the route itself, but Cockabooty’s fixed anchor nearby offers a reliable rappel point.
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