"Chʼáagu Chʼáakʼ is a five-pitch sport climb cutting through Yukon’s Rusted Goat Wall, blending technical moves with a bold traverse and careful slab climbing. It’s an alpine test of endurance and finesse, set against White Mountain’s rugged backdrop."
Chʼáagu Chʼáakʼ stands as a compelling challenge on the Rusted Goat Wall, carving through the rugged terrain of White Mountain in Yukon Territory. This five-pitch sport route offers climbers a varied and dynamic experience across 722 feet of vertical granite, inviting those with a solid 5.9 ability to engage with complex sequences featuring both technical moves and strategic traverses.
The climb begins beneath an inviting aspen grove, where the fresh forest air mixes with the rough texture of the ramp that defines Pitch 1. Ascending 50 meters, you push past two moderate bulges, each demanding precise footwork and confident hand placements. The atmosphere is quiet but alive, with the rustle of leaves occasionally punctuated by the sound of shoes brushing rock. Pitch 2 guides you straight up a clear line, with a string of strong holds offering a steady rhythm despite the sustained nature of the 35-meter stretch graded 5.8.
Pitch 3, known as "The Traverse," presents the crux of the route. After surmounting a roof's left edge, climbers must traverse right along a slabby ramp, demanding patience and controlled movement to avoid rope drag. The ledge at the end of the pitch provides a brief but welcome respite with room to regroup and adjust slings before pushing onward. This traverse underscores the route's character—no single move dominates, but your endurance and finesse are tested in equal measure.
Continuing onto Pitch 4, "The Gravel Pit," the terrain transitions to a slab marked by loose rock patches. Here, protection and caution are paramount. The 55-meter 5.7 pitch moves directly up before veering right to solid rock. Rockfall risk increases with traffic on adjacent routes, and climbers are advised to evaluate conditions carefully before committing. This pitch is a reminder that even moderate terrain in remote areas can hold unexpected hazards.
The final pitch, "The Boulder Problem," finishes the route with a classic 30-meter 5.9 ascent. Crossing a grassy ledge, climbers push up and exit left around a bulge to reach the top. The varied moves on this pitch demand both power and technique, a fitting conclusion to a route that balances endurance and precision.
Rappelling options provide flexibility for descent. One can descend by a single rope from the top pitch, then double rope rappel from Pitch 4 before following the rappel route of adjacent climbs like Iki Gai all the way to the ground. Alternatively, rappelling double ropes all the way down the route is possible but requires attention, particularly at the traverse on Pitch 3 where clipping bolts and swinging safely is necessary. Using natural bulges as guides helps navigate the rappel line confidently.
The Rusted Goat Wall is a remote alpine environment where weather can shift rapidly and conditions vary dramatically. Anticipate cool temperatures in the shade of the north-facing wall, and bring layered clothing alongside a reliable hydration system. Quickdraws and bolted anchors are plentiful—13 quickdraws suit the protection demands—but thoughtful rack management will ease rope drag through the traverse and other technical sections.
This route invites climbers who relish a full-on alpine sport climbing adventure with mixed pitches that challenge not only movement but situational awareness. The diverse terrain, from forest patches to slabs strewn with gravel, calls for readiness and respect for the mountain. Undertake Chʼáagu Chʼáakʼ with solid technique, steady endurance, and an appreciation for the wild Yukon backdrop that frames every move.
Loose rock is a significant concern on Pitch 4, ‘‘The Gravel Pit.’’ Stay alert for falling debris, especially if other parties are climbing parallel routes below. Use helmets and avoid lingering under active fall lines.
Start early to avoid loose rockfall risk from adjacent routes during busy periods.
Use long slings on Pitch 3 to minimize rope drag on the traverse.
Bring layered clothing; the north-facing wall remains cool even in summer.
When rappelling, clip bolts on traverse sections to ensure a safe descent swing.
Requires 13 quickdraws with bolted anchors in place, ideal for managing rope drag especially through the traverse. Long slings recommended on Pitch 3 to reduce rope friction. No traditional gear placements needed.
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