"Cereal Killer in Yosemite’s Lower Merced River Canyon delivers a compact yet challenging 70-foot pitch. Sharply featured cracks and careful gear placements make it a rewarding climb for those ready to balance technical moves with thoughtful protection."
Cereal Killer offers a focused, dynamic climb tucked into Yosemite’s Lower Merced River Canyon—a spot that challenges the climber with striking features and a blend of traditional and sport protection. The route kicks off on a sharply angled flake that demands sharp attention and steady feet, placing solid 4-inch gear behind it to feel secure. As you ascend, the line draws you left along pronounced cracks before cutting straight upward. The final section tests your judgment—knobs replace obvious holds and the crack narrows, requiring careful movement to reach the anchors tucked just overhead. This climb squeezes out technical moves across a concise 70-foot pitch, perfect for seasoned climbers looking to enjoy a route that balances commitment and accessible protection.
The Lower Merced River Canyon is an impressive part of Yosemite National Park, known for its rugged granite cliffs and adventure-ready walls. The approach is straightforward but requires alertness—it's a brief walk from established paths, placing you close to the river’s hum and the scent of pine. This route’s hybrid style means you'll need a rack with small to medium cams, plus a handful of draws. Because the protection gets tricky near the top, placing gear before the knobs is critical for safety and peace of mind.
While it is possible to top-rope this climb by hiking around the cliff to the left and circling back, leading it provides a rewarding sense of accomplishment against the granite's enduring challenge. The route can also be assisted as a top-rope from the summit of the nearby Figment climb, making it accessible for climbers still building confidence on vertical cracks.
Timing your climb during mid-morning or late afternoon can significantly improve your experience. The face gradually moves from sun to shade, keeping the rock surface comfortable through warmer months, and the dry fingers of fall or late spring are ideal for steady friction. After topping out, descend carefully via a short downclimb or rappel from fixed anchors—both methods demand attention to avoid loose rock or scrambling hazards.
For this climb, gear selection and placement are critical. Begin by confidently placing a 4" cam behind that bold flake at the base, then carry smaller cams for the varied cracks following above. The protection is mostly solid but expect a few sections where traditional placements are sparse. This creates a delicate balance of trust in your gear and movement. The climb invites adventurous yet practical climbers who appreciate Yosemite’s blend of grit and grace, ideal for those seeking a technical single pitch with a bit of everything—cracks, flakes, and some featureless slabs requiring finesse.
The top section lacks continuous cracks and protection can be sparse; stay vigilant of loose knobs and test your gear placements thoroughly. The approach to the anchors requires careful movement, and the descent includes class 3 downclimbing or rappelling—ensure ropes and anchors are reliable before committing.
Place a 4-inch cam securely behind the first flake for a confident start.
Watch the knobs near the top where the crack fades—move carefully.
Mid-morning or late afternoon offers comfortable temperatures and good lighting.
Use fixed anchors for a safe rappel descent or opt for a cautious downclimb.
Bring small to medium cams, including a solid 4-inch cam for the initial flake. A few quickdraws will help protect airy sections. The route is amenable to toproping by hiking around the cliff on the climber's left and circling back.
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