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Cerberus at Tantalus Wall: A Raw Trad Climb in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
trad climbing
multi-pitch
dike traverse
exposed
rain-prone
crack climbing
squamish granite
Length: 600 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
6
Location
Cerberus
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cerberus unfolds across Tantalus Wall’s rugged granite in Squamish as a demanding six-pitch trad climb that blends bolted sections with classic gear placements. Its sustained difficulty and distinctive dike traverse make it both a technical test and a thrilling adventure."

Cerberus at Tantalus Wall: A Raw Trad Climb in Squamish

Cerberus stakes its bold claim on Tantalus Wall, a rugged face in the heart of Squamish, British Columbia, inviting climbers into a demanding six-pitch trad journey that tests skill and stamina alike. The route starts by threading through established approaches—either following Tantalus Wall or Milk Run for about three pitches—to reach a halfway ledge that offers a moment to catch your breath and scan the spectacular granite that stretches above. For those seeking a shortcut, rappelling directly into the upper pitches is a solid option, sparing some of the approach’s toil.

From this midpoint, the route shifts rightward, leading to a stunning dike adorned with nine bolts, a rare combination where solid trad and sport merge. This section, graded 5.10d, presents clean, gripping holds and a natural line that trends steadily right across the wall. Its smooth flow rewards precise foot placement and steady breathing in the fresh mountain air. Following the dike, the climbing escalates in both length and intensity. The next pitch takes you through a sustained traverse beneath an overhanging lip, demanding endurance and focus as you navigate 14 bolts over an extended 5.11d climb. The rock’s texture here is sharp and secure, yet the physical commitment remains high, with no room to conserve energy.

A thrilling but daunting hollow flake guards the top of this pitch. Its precarious nature injects caution into adrenaline, asking climbers to move deliberately but confidently to reach the belay station. The climb’s penultimate pitch is a mental hurdle where a tricky start has been known to send hesitant climbers into retreat. Maintaining balance while threading hand and finger jams can be taxing, with no shortage of exposure to fuel the heart rate. This 5.11d section demands a calm mind and practiced technique.

The final pitch offers a tangible goal: a steeper climb where well-chosen protection—specifically #2 and #3 Camalot placements—is crucial for safety. The granite here resists casual movement, encouraging committed moves and square footing. Rain can sweep in quickly, so come prepared with weatherproof gear and be ready to bail if the mood of the mountain shifts. Cerberus’s blend of bolts and gear placements makes it accessible for climbers comfortable with traditional protection but wanting some security offered by bolts in hazardous sections.

The alpine environment surrounding Tantalus Wall fills the senses—pine branches whisper nearby, distant waterfalls add a background roar, and the scent of fresh stone sharpens focus. Climbers who take on Cerberus step into a storied rock face pulsing with challenge and reward, where every move connects to the legacy of Squamish’s climbing ethos—a balance of respect, adventure, and raw experience. Practical preparation is key: bring a rack heavy on cams to protect tricky sections, dress in layers against sudden weather swings, and start early to avoid afternoon rain and maximize daylight.

Whether drawn by the technical demands, the jagged beauty of the dike, or the chance to test your mettle on one of Squamish’s more intense trad lines, Cerberus delivers. It’s a climb that pulls you into the moment and asks you to respond with skill and determination, backed by the quiet watchfulness of the great Tantalus granite.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on the hollow flake; it’s lively and demands careful placements. Watch the weather closely—rain can make the granite dangerously slick and trigger the need for an early retreat. Be knowledgeable with rappelling from the halfway ledge for a safe bail option.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches6
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon rain showers common in the region.

Bring a rack heavy on cams to protect tricky flake and dike sections.

Happy to bail? Know the rappel spots off the halfway ledge if conditions change suddenly.

Good footwear with sticky rubber makes sustained crack and face sections more manageable.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:At 5.11d, Cerberus presents a stiff challenge with multiple sustained cruxes, particularly on the traverse beneath the roof and the hollow flake move. The grade is on the sharp side for Squamish trad, requiring precise technique and endurance. A few sections feel particularly pumpy, making the climb feel harder than grade alone suggests.

Gear Requirements

Prepare a full trad rack with a focus on medium to large cams, especially #2 and #3 Camalots for the final pitches. Expect to use both bolts and gear placements throughout. Waterproof layers and rain gear are strongly recommended due to the area’s frequent weather shifts.

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Tags

trad climbing
multi-pitch
dike traverse
exposed
rain-prone
crack climbing
squamish granite