"Cepphus Grylle is a potent trad route on Flatrock's Main Face, combining a demanding boulder problem roof crux with technical corner climbing. Expect a bold 55-foot push that rewards committed gear placements and focus on climbing precision in a raw coastal setting."
Cepphus Grylle on the Main Face of Flatrock presents a gritty, technical trad challenge that demands both mental grit and precise footwork. Located on the Avalon Peninsula of Newfoundland, this 55-foot climb combines physical intensity with scenic coastal exposure, where the Atlantic winds and salt air nudge you into focus. The approach winds through rugged terrain with coastal shrubs and rocky outcrops that hint at the ocean nearby, a quiet reminder of nature’s persistent forces shaping the rock.
At the start, you face loose rock and signs of erosion—nature’s unpredictable edge adding weight to the ascent. The climb begins with a high first bolt that requires a stick clip for safety, sparking an intricate boulder problem over an overhanging roof. This crux move demands powerful, precise movement and commitment, testing climbers beyond the route’s numerical grade. Beyond the roof, a corner with sustained 5.10 climbing rewards careful foot placements and technique, while the protection gradually opens up. After the third bolt, the line runs out to a sizable ledge where #2 and #3 Camalots find good placements, offering a moment to regroup.
From the ledge, a short hand and fist crack leads confidently to the top, closing the route with a satisfying mix of protection and technical face climbing. Notably, climbers should prepare for a route that feels stiffer than its 5.12a rating suggests, given the crux’s intensity and the runout sections. Adding an additional bolt near the base would enhance safety, but the current setup encourages a thoughtful, trad approach where gear placements and tactical climbing are rewarded.
The area’s natural setting enhances the experience—coastal winds add a dynamic presence to the climb, while exposed rock surfaces catch the shifting light of the day, painting shadows and highlights across the route. The bolted anchor system to the right on Ataxia provides a reliable, established top-out, giving climbers options for a safe descent. Whether you’re dialing into the demanding moves or savoring the raw character of the route, Cepphus Grylle offers a rugged, memorable outing ideally suited for confident trad climbers seeking a solid challenge on Newfoundland’s shores.
Prior preparation is key here: a stick clip for the first bolt should be standard, and carrying long slings will ease managing the runouts. Wearing shoes with solid edging capabilities helps negotiate the delicate moves in the corner and roof, while a focus on dry, firm conditions will reduce risks from loose rock or erosion. Whether you’re local or traveling in, this climb’s blend of ocean air, technical climbing, and exposed ledges makes it a compelling addition to any trad climber’s Newfoundland portfolio.
Caution is crucial at the route’s base where rockfall and erosion have loosened holds; carefully test placements and avoid dislodging debris. The initial bolt sits high, making the stick clip a critical safety measure. Additionally, be vigilant on the runout sections where gear placements, though solid, are spaced and require focused climbing.
Stick clip the first bolt to avoid an unprotected, dangerous start.
Wear shoes with aggressive edging to tackle the roof and corner moves cleanly.
Carry long slings to reduce rope drag around gear placed on runout sections.
Climb during dry conditions to minimize loose rock and erosion hazards.
Pack 3 quickdraws for the bolts, use a stick clip to safely reach the first high bolt. Bring #2 and #3 Camalots for solid placements at the ledge, plus a couple of long slings to manage rope drag on runout sections. Anchors can be set using gear or the bolted anchor on Ataxia to the right.
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