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Centrist at Radio Head: The Essential Crack Introduction

Denver, Colorado United States
finger crack
hand crack
easy crack climbing
single pitch
south platte
beginner trad
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Centrist
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Centrist on the Gully Slab Wall offers a perfect stepping stone into crack climbing, blending smooth slab footwork with a rewarding finger and hand crack that culminates in a memorable crux just shy of the top ledge. It's a straightforward 5.8 trad pitch that’s as approachable for newcomers as it is satisfying for seasoned trad climbers."

Centrist at Radio Head: The Essential Crack Introduction

Centrist carves its path through the Gully Slab Wall at Radio Head, offering a balanced introduction to traditional crack climbing in Colorado’s South Platte region. This single-pitch, 50-foot route presents a moderate 5.8 challenge that traverses from solid foot placements to a clean, inviting crack system that rewards steady technique. The approach to the first hand jams is straightforward, starting with secure footholds on the slab before transitioning fully into the crack. As you ascend, the crack becomes the main focus, testing your commitment and finesse as fingers and hands find their holds.

The route’s lower section is gentle, encouraging climbers to explore footwork on the face, but it’s a benefit for those eager to practice crack-specific moves as the face holds remain optional. Near the top lies the defining crux: a shared ledge where all three Radio Head routes converge before demanding a move up onto a slight overhang. This demanding step requires careful positioning and is the pivotal test that adds character to this otherwise moderate climb.

Protection here leans on a straightforward rack of finger- and hand-sized cams, making gear placements manageable even for those newer to traditional climbing. The rock is generally solid, but attention should be paid when placing gear near the crux, where securing pieces demands precision.

Radio Head’s Gully Slab Wall sits within a landscape marked by broad views and a rugged charm. Access to Centrist begins with a well-established approach that winds through a mixed pine and scrub environment, a 15-minute hike that rewards with quiet solitude and steady elevation gain. The route’s east-northeast aspect means morning sun warms the slab brightly while afternoons cool down pleasantly, making spring and fall the preferred climbing windows when temperatures are stable.

Descending involves a short walk off the backside ledges leading back to the trail, simple yet requiring careful footing, especially after a long day on the wall. Whether you’re introducing a partner to crack climbing or refining your technique on moderate traditional climbs, Centrist strikes a fine balance between skill-building and adventure, promising a grounded yet spirited outing in Colorado’s climbing heartland.

Climber Safety

Watch your gear placements near the overhang where the angle increases; rock quality remains solid but the protection can feel sparse if hurried. Take time to test each pro piece. The ledge at the top is narrow—ensure stable footing before committing to the final move.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Aim for morning ascents to enjoy warm sunlight and optimal climbing temperatures.

Practice crack techniques on the lower section before committing to the crux overhang.

Bring a rack heavy on smaller cams—finger to hand size—for smooth placement.

Descend carefully via the backside ledges; footing can be tricky when tired or after wet conditions.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels honest and approachable, with a steady climb up the crack that invites focus but doesn’t overextend. The true challenge arrives at the final move onto the ledge’s overhang, introducing a brief but crucial crux that demands precise technique. Compared to other local moderate cracks, Centrist holds a comfortable grade but rewards climbers who want to sharpen crack skills in a low-angle setting.

Gear Requirements

A simple rack focused on finger- and hand-sized cams covers the protection needs. Placements are reliable though some care is required near the slight overhang section at the top to ensure solid protection.

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Tags

finger crack
hand crack
easy crack climbing
single pitch
south platte
beginner trad