"Central Ramp on Mt. Alice offers sustained alpine trad climbing with a compelling mix of snow, stemming, hand cracks, and chimneys. Its long approach rewards solitude and sweeping views over Wild Basin for those ready to engage with varied terrain and classic Colorado high-country challenges."
Ascending the Central Ramp on Mt. Alice offers a robust alpine climbing experience set against the vast backdrop of Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. This route presents a solid challenge for climbers comfortable with sustained 5.7 to 5.8 terrain, combining an engaging mix of snow travel, stemming, laybacks, hand cracks, and chimneys that keep every pitch interesting. The approach itself tests your commitment—a long trek that often means you’ll find yourself alone on this rugged mountain, although you may cross paths with other parties drawn to this well-known line.
To reach the base, climbers choose among several approaches depending on conditions and preference. The snow tongue on the left provides the most direct route if soft enough to kick steps. Otherwise, easy pitches just right of the snow or the more exposed, loose ramp to the bottom right offer alternative access, though the latter is generally less favored for descent or nuanced scrambling. Emerging from the approach, flower-speckled grassy ledges and white rock corrugate your path, easing you into the technical portion.
The climb is typically tackled with 60-meter ropes over seven pitches, totaling roughly 1200 vertical feet. The first pitch introduces a highly enjoyable 5.8 dihedral to the left, filled with stemming opportunities and secure pro placements, offering more excitement than the described 5.5 chimney alternative on the right. Pitch two climbs higher along the massive right-facing dihedral up the left edge of the ramp, demanding attention as you navigate under a low diagonal roof. On pitch three, careful chimney work maneuvers around choke stones before a shift left onto a comfortable ramp.
Pitch four challenges you with laybacks, stems, and jams along the left edge, eventually placing you under a commanding roof. From here, a shallow right-facing dihedral and a rewarding hand crack on pitch five test technique and endurance before a final ramp guides you toward the summit.
The descent offers multiple routes: heading south then southeast across grassy slopes back to Alice’s east side is the most straightforward, while dropping south to the Continental Divide and looping around via Boulder Grand Pass provides a longer, scenic exit. For climbers seeking a more direct and varied return, the north descent via Hourglass Ridge—class 3 scrambling—brings you to a saddle from which you navigate back along ridges and trails.
This climb demands a typical alpine rack with protection sized up to two inches. Extra gear can help secure tricky sections if you seek added safety or wish to link pitches more confidently. Rock quality matches the alpine standard in RMNP; occasional lichen and loose holds appear but rarely catch you unprepared.
Beyond the physical challenge, this route rewards climbers with panoramic views of Wild Basin and a deep sense of solitude uncommon in more trafficked areas. Weather moves swiftly in these high elevations, and the western approach limits early storm visibility, putting a premium on monitoring conditions and timing your climb carefully. Spring through early fall delivers the best window, with snow conditions dictating the initial approach route.
Central Ramp is an alpine climb that respects the mountain’s wildness while inviting a diverse range of climbing skills. It’s an adventure that combines technical climbing variety with a backcountry experience—perfect for those ready to embrace the full rhythm of alpine rock climbing in Colorado’s iconic national park.
Loose rock and patches of lichen require cautious hand and foot placements, especially on the approach ramp and the early pitches. Weather can shift rapidly, so stay alert for changing conditions. The long approach warrants sufficient water, food, and emergency gear, as rescue options are limited in this remote setting.
Plan for a long approach and start early to maximize daylight and avoid afternoon storms.
If snow is firm and kickable, the snow tongue approach is the safest and most direct.
Monitor weather closely—western storms can arrive quickly and are often not visible from the approach.
Use 60-meter ropes for efficient pitch management and to ensure comfortable belays on ledges.
A standard alpine rack extending up to 2-inch cams will cover most protection needs. Bringing additional gear can help secure difficult sections and allow more confident linking of pitches. Expect typical alpine rock with occasional loose holds and patches of lichen; careful placements remain essential throughout.
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