"Central Park offers a compact 40-foot sport climb on the right side of Bowery Rock. With three distinct sections and a mix of technical moves, this route rewards precise footwork and balance, making it an ideal choice for climbers refining their technique in the San Bernardino Mountains."
Rising steadily on the right side of Bowery Rock, Central Park offers a compelling single-pitch sport climb that demands both finesse and confidence. Spanning roughly 40 feet, this route breaks naturally into three distinct segments, separated by several ledges that invite a brief moment to reset and focus. The start is the most deliberate move, perched on a slab above a large flat rock. Climbers face a choice here: a direct line past the first bolt challenges the hands and feet at 5.10a, requiring precise balance and commitment. Alternatively, stepping slightly right along a more obvious edge softens the move to about 5.8, offering a more straightforward option that still rewards careful foot placement.
Progressing into the middle section, climbers work their way up the slab through a series of subtle side pulls and delicate foot moves. The rock’s surface is coated with patches of lichen that can dull the holds, adding an unpredictable texture underfoot and testing your grip. This layer of green and gray embodies the quiet patience of the rock, pushing climbers to stay attentive rather than rush.
The upper section holds the route’s crux: a sequence of small crimps combined with a careful dance of balance and body positioning to top out confidently. The climb’s rating feels honest but with a slight edge due to the slippery lichen and the need for precise movement rather than pure strength. Once better trafficked, the holds will likely offer cleaner contact, rewarding early visitors with a satisfying challenge.
Descending is straightforward with a single rappel from the bolted anchor, making for a smooth transition back to the base. Bowery Rock sits within the broader Big Bear Lake Area, a distinctive climbing destination characterized by rugged granite faces etched into the San Bernardino Mountains’ rugged backdrop. This setting offers a mix of approachable routes with pockets of technical intrigue, ideal for climbers seeking a focused outing without venturing deep into remote wilderness.
Given the route’s moderate length and sport protection, Central Park is well suited to climbers dialing in their technique or on a warm-up day before tackling the area’s longer lines. Timing your climb for morning or late afternoon can help avoid the glare on the slab, especially in warmer months, as the south-facing wall catches the sun for extended periods.
Prepare with secure climbing shoes capable of delicate edging, chalk to combat the slipperiness from lichen, and attention to approach details. The trail to Bowery Rock weaves through mixed chaparral and pine, a relatively short but steady 10-minute hike from the main access point, placing you quickly in the heart of Big Bear’s granite offerings. Whether you’re seeking a crisp technical route or a solid introduction to the area’s rock character, Central Park stands as a quiet invitation to test your style against nature’s steady resistance.
Lichen-covered holds may feel slick, especially when damp. Approach with caution after wet weather and double-check your anchor before descending. The rappel is single pitch and requires a solid 60-meter rope for safe evacuation.
Choose an early morning or late afternoon start to avoid the strong midday sun on the slab.
Watch for patches of lichen that can reduce hold friction, especially after rain or in humid conditions.
Use chalk sparingly to maintain grip without overly drying delicate skin.
The approach trail is short but uneven—wear sturdy shoes and stay hydrated.
This route is protected by 5 bolts with a bolted anchor at the top, allowing for a comfortable lead climb and rappel descent. Bring a 60-meter rope for the single rappel and don’t skimp on quality climbing shoes for the technical feet work required.
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