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Centipeder at Firewall: A Bold Sport Climb on Mt Wells

Victoria, British Columbia Canada
sport climbing
slab
single pitch
technical footing
Vancouver Island
British Columbia
Length: 55 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Centipeder
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Centipeder is a focused, single-pitch sport climb on the steep slabs of Firewall, Mt Wells. With subtle holds and precise moves, this 5.10c route challenges climbers to balance finesse and control on Vancouver Island’s forested cliffs."

Centipeder at Firewall: A Bold Sport Climb on Mt Wells

Centipeder is a precise, focused climb that demands attention to every hold on the steep slab at Firewall, located on Mt Wells in Victoria, British Columbia. This 55-foot single-pitch route threads a logical path up the wall, secured by six well-placed bolts that guide climbers from the ground to a fixed station at the summit. The challenge lies in the subtle nature of the holds; small edges and faint incuts test your footwork and finger strength without offering any generous jugs. Each move demands deliberate control, a quiet conversation between body and rock.

The approach to Firewall itself is straightforward, cutting through forested trails that soften the transition from busy Vancouver Island roads to a serene climbing area. The rock face catches the afternoon light, its slab face glowing warm yet cool enough to offer solid friction under climbers’ shoes. The verticality is deceptive—this isn’t a sprint but a careful negotiation with the wall, where balance and precision outweigh brute force.

Being rated 5.10c, Centipeder sits solidly in the intermediate-to-advanced range, suitable for climbers looking to sharpen their sport climbing technique on slab. The bolts provide security but don’t overshadow the need for tactical movement and mental focus. This climb is especially rewarding for those who appreciate routes that challenge finesse over power, offering a refreshing alternative to overhanging or jug-heavy sport climbs.

Gear-wise, six bolts mark the route, and the fixed station at the top allows for a confident top-rope setup or a secure lead rappel. Protection is straightforward with little need for extra trad gear, making the climb accessible for those traveling light or focusing on sport discipline.

Local conditions favor climbing in the spring through fall when the wall stays dry and temperatures remain moderate. Early mornings bring crisp air and firm rock, while afternoons reveal the rock’s warmth, though direct sun can sometimes make gripping the holds a little more challenging. The orientation leans to catch light through much of the day, so plan your ascent accordingly.

Safety steps include taking care with slipping on the smoother slab sections, especially in cooler or damp conditions. Footwear with excellent rubber and sensitive edging ability will make a noticeable difference here. The fixed station anchors are solid but always worth double-checking before committing to a rappel.

For climbers visiting the area, centering your day around Firewall on Mt Wells offers more than just this route. The remote feel of the location, combined with the surrounding forest landscape, provides a tranquil backdrop after the intensity of the climb itself. Pack plenty of water, as the trail and climbing demand both physical and mental hydration.

Whether you’re refining slab skills or seeking a sharp, efficiently bolted ascent on Vancouver Island, Centipeder stands out as a precise line that rewards patience and smart movement. It promises a satisfying climb where the rock’s voice challenges you to listen closely and respond thoughtfully.

Climber Safety

The slab surface can become slick if wet or covered with fine dust, so assess conditions before climbing. The fixed bolt station is solid, but always inspect before belaying or rappelling to ensure safety.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length55 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the marked trail through mixed forest terrain—expect about 20 minutes from the parking area.

Wear climbing shoes with sticky rubber for better footing on the slab’s small edges.

Plan to climb mid-morning or late afternoon to avoid direct midday sun, which can heat the slab surface.

Always double-check the fixed anchor at the top before setting up your rappel or top rope.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating here aligns with other slab routes in the region but feels slightly stiff due to the subtle small holds and technical footwork required. Unlike overhanging climbs that rely on power, Centipeder demands careful body positioning and precise movement, so climbers used to jug-dominated routes might find it trickier than the grade suggests.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by six bolts leading to a fixed station at the top, so a standard sport rack with quickdraws suffices. No additional trad gear is necessary, making it ideal for lightweight sport sessions.

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Tags

sport climbing
slab
single pitch
technical footing
Vancouver Island
British Columbia