"Cedar City at Mount Baldy Crag presents a welcoming multi-pitch sport climb perfect for those stepping into longer routes. With three pitches of bolted climbing set against pristine alpine wilderness, this route offers steady challenges paired with stunning mountain views."
Cedar City on Mount Baldy Crag offers an accessible multi-pitch climb that welcomes new leaders eager to gain confidence with bolted routes in a rugged alpine setting. Positioned within Kananaskis' dramatic landscape, this climb stretches about 200 feet across three pitches that blend straightforward movement with the occasional technical sequence. The rock face presents an inviting challenge where clean bolt lines guide you through varied terrain without overwhelming complexity.
The approach requires only a brief scramble up to the base of an unmistakable gully where the first pitch begins. Here, the rock demands mindful foot placement and steady handholds as you engage with face moves leading directly to a secure bolted belay. The anchors offer reassurance, while the exposure breathes life into the climb without threats of serious falls. For those climbing efficiently, pitches one and two link smoothly, allowing a continuous ascent without interruptions. Pitch two is more of a stroll through a partially sheltered gully. A short traverse along a cable-guided path invites hikers to catch their breath before the final push.
Pitch three represents the core climbing experience, graded 5.7, where vertical moves come into play. Climbers maneuver around a resilient tree growing from the rock, following bolts that guide left of a distinctive corner. The final mantel onto the summit block rewards you with a bolted station overlooking wide vistas that stretch across rolling mountain ridges and forested valleys. The late afternoon sun filters softly through the branches, playing shadows on the rock, which is generally solid but definitely demands attention to detail.
The descent favors a walk-off, descending through navigable terrain that avoids the need for rappelling, though two 30-meter rappels are possible for those who prefer a controlled retreat. Bolts are generously spaced, requiring about a dozen quickdraws for a smooth lead. This climb’s straightforward protection and moderate grades make it an ideal training ground for climbers stepping into multi-pitch sport routes for the first time.
Planning-wise, good footwear with sticky rubber helps secure footholds on the sometimes-polished granite. Hydration is key: the exposed gully can heat up quickly under the midday sun, so start early to catch cooler morning air and avoid glare. Weather in Kananaskis can shift rapidly; always check forecasts and be ready for sudden breezes in the alpine environment. Respect the local ecology by sticking to trails on the approach and minimizing chalk use to keep the rock pristine.
In all, Cedar City combines practical, well-protected climbing with the kind of wild surroundings that remind you why every move counts. It's not just a climb but a measured step into the rhythm of mountain rock—balanced, engaging, and accessible.
Watch for polished granite footholds on pitch three, which can be slippery when wet. The descent walk-off crosses uneven terrain; sturdy boots and attention to footing are essential. Keep an eye on weather, as alpine storms can develop quickly.
Link pitches 1 and 2 for a more fluid climb, as pitch 2 is mostly walking.
Begin early to avoid heat buildup in the exposed gully sections.
Wear sticky rubber shoes to handle polished granite sections.
Use minimal chalk to preserve the route's natural condition.
12 quickdraws handle all the bolts comfortably, with no additional gear needed. Bolts are solid and well-spaced for a smooth pitch-to-pitch transition.
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