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Cave Route on Bookmark Pinnacle: A Practical Trad Approach with an Awkward Edge

Estes Park, Colorado United States
hand crack
offwidth
brushy
short trad
Lumpy Ridge
moderate
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cave Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cave Route is the simplest trad option for reaching the Upper Terrace on Bookmark Pinnacle. Though the climbing is marked by awkward jamming and natural hurdles like bushes and guano, it offers a practical, accessible challenge with the option to extend to the summit blade or rappel off the nearby Time Machine anchors."

Cave Route on Bookmark Pinnacle: A Practical Trad Approach with an Awkward Edge

Cave Route provides the most straightforward approach to the Upper Terrace on Bookmark Pinnacle, offering a modest trad climb set against the rugged backdrop of Lumpy Ridge in Estes Park Valley. The journey begins with a scramble up the northern descent gully, where the terrain quickly shifts from loose scree to solid rock, signaling that roping up becomes necessary. This route demands careful footwork and steady commitment as you ascend to the base of two defining cracks on the north face of the Upper Terrace—one a hand crack and the other a challenging offwidth.

The hand crack leans into a gritty, moderately featured chimney system that requires precise jamming technique. Climbers should prepare for an unsettling encounter with small bushes and occasional guano deposits, adding a raw, untamed feel to the climb. This section is short but can become awkward if you're unprepared for the natural obstacles, so focus on controlled movement and avoid unnecessary reachy moves.

Once atop the Upper Terrace, you have two viable options. Extending the adventure by climbing the summit blade as a second pitch rewards you with more refined moves and a satisfying finish. For those who prefer a quicker exit, rappelling from the anchors on Time Machine offers a straightforward retreat, though rappelling directly from the chimney’s chockstone is strongly discouraged due to instability and potential hazards.

The length of this route is about 100 feet, typically done in one pitch with the possibility of adding a second if extending to the summit blade. Protection should include a standard trad rack capable of handling up to 3-inch pieces, with attention paid to careful gear placement given the nature of the cracks. The route’s 5.8 rating places it on the easier end of the trad spectrum here, but its awkwardness and the natural vegetation ensure that it stays interesting.

Approach conditions are manageable with a roughly 20-30 minute hike from trailheads near Estes Park, crossing forested slopes dotted with piñon and juniper before reaching the base of Bookmark Pinnacle. The high-elevation setting can bring afternoon winds and cooler temperatures, so packing layers and hydrating thoroughly is wise. Start early to avoid the heat and afternoon storms common in Colorado’s soaring mountain environment.

Cave Route isn't about flawless rock or slick moves—it’s a straightforward, practical way to gain the Upper Terrace while experiencing a slice of Lumpy Ridge’s gritty texture. It strikes a balance for climbers who want moderate technical challenge without the demands of long approaches or intense crack climbing. Just be prepared for the natural quirks and keep a cautious eye on anchoring and descent plans. This is the kind of climb that rewards patience and clear planning, unlocking a quiet corner of one of Colorado’s most storied climbing areas.

Climber Safety

Scrambling the approach gully requires caution due to loose rock and thick brush. The presence of guano in cracks signals slippery patches; maintain steady body position and avoid rattling holds. Do not attempt to rappel from the chimney chockstone as it is unstable and risky.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Scramble carefully up the north descent gully—rock can be loose and vegetation dense.

Expect occasional guano in the hand crack; wear gloves to protect your hands.

Consider adding the summit blade as a second pitch for a more fulfilling climb.

Avoid rappelling from the chimney chockstone—use Time Machine’s anchors instead.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Cave Route is approachable but carries a certain awkwardness that can bump the commitment level. The offwidth adds a stiff edge for those unfamiliar with burly crack climbing, while the hand crack provides more comfortable jamming. Compared to other Lumpy Ridge climbs, this route feels softer but demands basic crack skills and careful route-finding.

Gear Requirements

A full trad rack with protection up to 3 inches is essential, focusing on reliable placements in hand and offwidth cracks. Fixed anchors on Time Machine can be used for rappelling, but avoid relying on the chimney chockstone for descent.

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Tags

hand crack
offwidth
brushy
short trad
Lumpy Ridge
moderate