HomeClimbingCaught in the Middle

Caught in the Middle: A Sport Climb at Shelf Road

Canon City, Colorado United States
vertical face
blocky holds
single pitch
sport route
desert climbing
crux section
bolted anchors
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Caught in the Middle
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Clean vertical climbing meets blocky holds on this accessible 80-foot sport route at Shelf Road. Its straightforward bolts and a focused crux section make it a favorite for climbers seeking solid movement in Colorado’s desert cliffs."

Caught in the Middle: A Sport Climb at Shelf Road

Caught in the Middle stakes its claim on a clean, vertical wall within the raw landscape of Shelf Road near Canon City, Colorado. This one-pitch sport route offers 80 feet of climbing where the rock speaks clearly—bold and blocky holds dominate the path, with the key to success lying just left of center. Paddling your hands upward, the initial four bolts guide you past grooved edges and textured faces, encouraging confident moves that build into the route’s heart. Around the fifth clip, you encounter the crux: a short but testing section of oversized blocky rock that demands focus and steady footwork. Beyond this, the climbing eases into large holds, allowing a more relaxed pace toward the anchored chains waiting at the top.

The approach is manageable, threading through dry, sparse terrain typical of Colorado’s high desert cliffs. Vertical pitches like this one challenge both beginner and intermediate climbers to trust gear placements bolted in with nine fixed clips. Shelf Road’s character shines through its exposed rock faces, offering an immersive outdoor experience under vast blue skies and the occasional sweeping desert breeze. Despite the straightforward nature of the climb, the calls of the wind and the feel of warm stone create an engaged connection with this wild, open environment.

For those planning to tackle Caught in the Middle, timing your climb early in the day can mean cooler rock and fewer distractions from afternoon wind gusts. Hydration is critical here—the arid air pulls moisture quickly from your body between moves. Footwear with sticky rubber and confident edging will help you negotiate the subtle holds along the crux without wasting energy. Simply put, this route delivers a classic Shelf Road climb: accessible, solid bolts, and a crux that tests precision.

Whether you're looking to sharpen your technique on vertical terrain or want an approachable route to enjoy the raw environment around Canon City, Caught in the Middle invites you to push upward and feel the sharp focus of rock climbing where nature is both backdrop and challenge.

Climber Safety

Although bolted securely, the blocky crux section requires careful foot placement to avoid slips. The anchors are set up for rappel, so double-check your gear before descent. Also, sun exposure is high; plan accordingly to prevent dehydration and sunburn.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to avoid afternoon heat and wind.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber to handle blocky crimps at the crux.

Bring plenty of water; the dry climate depletes hydration fast.

Approach through modest desert terrain—wear sun protection.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating on Caught in the Middle is approachable but honest, with a crux that nudges effort beyond casual 5.7 routes. The blocky section near the top demands deliberate footwork, making this route a good test of balance and technique without being intimidating. Compared to other Shelf Road sport climbs, it sits in the moderate range—friendly enough to build confidence but with enough challenge to keep focus sharp.

Gear Requirements

Nine quickdraws secure the route from the ground to anchored chains. Fixed bolts provide reliable clipping points throughout.

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Tags

vertical face
blocky holds
single pitch
sport route
desert climbing
crux section
bolted anchors